Adelaide Dress

Seamwork Adelaide fusciaSummer is coming!  We’ve had a cool spring, but the heat and humidity is on it’s way!  (I hope)  Does the idea of a simple dress, with front bust and back waist darts and a front snap closure make you think of a hot summer day as you stay cool? 

This pattern is being featured on the Seamwork website this month for $5, with sizing from 0 to 26.

Seamwork adelaideAnother view from the Seamwork page, this one is in a cool cotton print that looks refreshing.

This next one is in a print that just screams my name, I found this version on la Petite Josette blog.

Petite Josette Adelaide dress

Here’s the outline drawing which shows the details really well.

Seamwork Adelaide outline

I have a piece of cotton poly in a nice weight that would be perfect.  It’s in my stash, and will be perfect to test this pattern out with.  fabric for Adelaide dress

 

 

 

IMG_3798This pattern is a download, and there are many pages to print. 

If you’ve not done this before, be sure to print off the first page of the pattern first, and make sure you are “printing to size”, not fitting to the page.  There’s a square to measure, check it, then if it’s the right size, go ahead and print the rest of the pattern.

It was easy to assemble, even with my cutting table assistant.  There are guide marks on every page.   Then I traced my size onto a sheet of tissue paper.   I wanted to keep the master pattern intact until I know that the size I chose fits me.  I’m sewing the size 12.

After tracing and cutting the pieces out, I held the front piece to my body and checked in the mirror.  The front darts are about 1 inch too high.  I’m fairly tall, 5 ft 10 inches, so generally add an inch in the body length anyway.  I added it between the bottom of the armhole and the top of the dart at the same place front and back.

IMG_3799

 

I also used the longest length instead of the line for size 12.

 

 

 

 

I didn’t print off the instructions, but read them over before I began sewing, then referred to them a few times as I needed to.  There are some great sewing techniques built into this project.  The stay-stitching around the neck and armholes is really important! 

I only did the back darts at half the width indicated, and curved them a bit at the widest point.

I must confess that I didn’t do the armhole bias finish as described.  Instead, I left the side-seams unsewn, applied the first step of attaching the bias, then sewed the side-seams before top-stitching the bias down to the inside.

underarm bias finish

When I finished the placket by folding it to the right side along the fold, I also finished it at the hem the same way, but used 1/2″ seam allowance.

page 13

When it gets turned outward, it’s perfect.  Notice my assistant.

hem step 1

IMG_4642

 

 

 

 

I used plastic snaps and they went on easily.  I really like these, they’re the “Babyville” brand, and I’m going to get more in different colours.

plastic snaps

Adelaide
Adelaide Dress

 

My observations:

  • I’m going to make this dress again, I really like it!  I was a bit concerned about the bare shoulders, but it’s fine.
  • The next time I make it I’ll make size 14 and sew the back darts according to the pattern (I already have it traced onto tissue)
  • I’m going to draft a neck and armhole facing for my next version
  • I’m also making the neck a 3/8th of an inch narrower at the shoulders, making the shoulder 3/8 of an inch wider on the neck side.
  • I had a little issue with the tie belt.  By cutting it according to the pattern, there was a lot of seam allowance bunched up in the point, even after trimming the excess off.  If you change the pattern and cut the ends as an outward point instead of an inward point, that problem is alleviated.  Drawn in red, below.belt fix

Do you want to make this dress?  If yes, follow the link above to the website where you can buy it. 

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