Oh Linda MacPhee, I’m inspired! I sew wanted to make a wrap dress, but couldn’t find just the “right” pattern. I wanted to use a knit, but didn’t want “tight”. Then came the AH HA moment.
A few years ago MacPhee Workshop introduced a pattern for a wrap-look pull-over top that crossed conservatively, had a flattering neckline, and had a nice feminine fit. BLT, the Best of Linda’s Tops, #311.
Why couldn’t I adapt THAT pattern? After all, Linda’s Liberation License gave me permission. Sew that was my starting point.
I began by tracing off a fresh pattern. (I always trace my patterns from the master copy), lengthening the front and back to tunic length by extending the side seams down past the hips. I lengthened the back first, using a large sheet of transparent
paper, folded in half. When cut out and unfolded, it gave me a guide for lengthening and shaping the front. I put it on top of the front pattern piece, then lined up the shoulders and armholes, and traced the left side exactly, and the right front below the triangular extension.
This one’s for summer wear, so no sleeves.
The fabric I chose was wide enough that I could fold it just enough for the back, then re-arrange the remainder for the fronts. Cut out, then be sure to mark the notch at the side seams.
Fuse 1 inch wide strips of fusible knit interfacing, cut across the grain, along the front shoulders, both front and back armholes, back neck, and the entire front neck. (It took quite a bit)
Time to sew! Or serge! Use 3/8″ seam allowance, or the width of your 4-thread overlock stitch. Take both fronts, with right sides together, and serge the back collar seam (between the arrows).
When it’s opened out, with wrong side facing up it looks like the bottom picture. You can see the seam down the center.
Flip it over so the right side is up and join it to the back at both shoulder seams.
The shoulder seams are between A and B, also C & D. The area between B & C stays unsewn for now.
Next is the back neck. It’s a bit tricky, but doable.
Fold the shoulder seams down, then pin the back neck seam. Carefully sew or serge the area between the shoulders, being careful to stop and end BETWEEN the shoulders.
There, the hard part is done. Serge finish the armholes and the front neck, from that little extension all around to the opposite extension.
Don’t lose track of the notches, they’re needed next.
Arrange your top as it’s going to be worn, with the left front over the right front. Insert a piece of ribbon about 30 cm (12 inches) long into the side-seam at the left at the notch, then serge or sew the side-seams.
On the right front, fold 1 inch of the neck edge toward the right side. Insert a piece of ribbon as shown and pin. On the left front, fold the neck edge the same way, but no ribbon. Pin. Set your serger for a rolled edge. I used YLI Pearl Crown Rayon in the upper looper, and really like the way it looks. WATCH FOR THE PINS AS YOU SERGE! With the right side of the fabric facing up, finish the fronts starting at the fold of the extension, continuing down the side front, the hem all the way around and ending at the folded extension. You can see the serging at the left of the picture.
Make an elastic button loop on the left front as shown.
Sew a button to the outside at the right side seam at the notch.
To finish the armholes, turn 1/2 inch to the wrong side and top-stitch. I like to use the lightening stitch for strength and stretch.
To wear, tie the ribbons to hold the inside, and fasten with the button on the outside. Arrange the fullness at the neck as desired.
Done! I love it, and will make another one soon, longer.