Category Archives: sewing

will include serging, quilting and machine embroidery

A New Pattern is Coming from Jalie

I’ve had the honour to do a bit of pattern testing for Jalie this past week, and it’s been a fun challenge.  

If you’ve been following my blog for a while, the Jalie name is familiar to you.  I’ve been sewing their patterns for years, starting when I owned a sewing machine retail store where I sold patterns, fabric and notions along with the sewing machines.  Many of the garment classes we held focused on the Jalie pattern line.

Since selling my business I’ve sewn quite a few test garments for Distinctive Sewing Supplies, an online retailer of fine fabrics and patterns working out of Oakville Ontario and most of the patterns were by Jalie. 

Sew now I’ve been sewing for Jalie directly as part of a testing team!

The pattern that we’re testing hasn’t been released yet, but stick around here, and as soon as it is, I’ll let you know!

corner
tab
end
FullSizeRender

Here are the fabrics I chose for the next one.

CreativFestival Fall 2017, It’s NEXT WEEK!

Here’s what it says on the website:

An unbeatable shopping excursion infused with ideas, inspiration and instruction.

Since 1988, Creativ Festival is Canada’s largest DIY consumer show dedicated to the creative arts of sewing, knitting, beading, spinning, weaving, felting, quilting, crocheting, stitching, scrap-booking, crafting and other fiber, textile, needle and paper arts. 

Whether newbie or seasoned pro, join others who share your creative passions at this exceptional interactive experience like no other where you can discover, learn, try and buy!

It will be a Celebration of Creativity!  Join us there on October 26-28, 2017!  Click here for the CreativFestival Fall 2017 brochure (here)   (We’re on page 8)

I’m helping out in the Distinctive Sewing Supplies booth, and teaching some classes;

Catherine’s Trunk Show is always great!  It’s free, come and join us at the Fashion Runway at 12:30 each day.

My No Pockets? No problem!  class is a free lecture style and I’ll show you a variety of pocket ideas for you to add to your garments.  I have a lot of samples to show you.  See you at the Sew News Stage, Thursday at 10:20

My ONE PATTERN …THREE DIFFERENT TEES, is a hands on “Pattern Hacking” class.  There is a fee and a supply list for this one. 

Designer Neckline Finishes is a free class/lecture requested by many of my sewing followers.  I have many samples and I hope to inspire you.  Sew News Stage Friday at 2:30

Fashion Fabric Know-How is a free class/lecture where I’ll talk about choosing the correct fabric for your pattern.  I have many samples of different fabrics for you to see and touch.  Sew News Stage Saturday 9:30

It will be a busy weekend and I’m really looking forward to it.  If you’re one of my readers, please drop by the Distinctive Sewing Supplies booth, #442, and say hello!  We’d love to see you!

 

 

Burda 7136

 

This shirt took me far too long to start.  The two coordinating stretch cotton poplins were washed in Eucalan shortly after I returned home from Quilt Canada, in June!!!!!!

I hadn’t sewn a shirt in a couple of years, but the Islander Sewing System skills came back quickly.  The hard part was choosing where to put the contrast fabrics. 

I finally decided to put it inside the pocket as a facing, inside the sleeve cuffs as a facing, inside the right front as a facing, under the collar, inside the yoke, and inside the collar stand.

The navy fabric is a directional print, so a “with nap” layout must be followed. 

inside collar stand
right front facing
under collar
inside pocket facing

I added 1 1/2 inches in the body length and 1 inch to the sleeve length, and it came out just the way I wanted it to.  This pattern has all the details in a man’s dress shirt, but shaped for a woman with bust and back waist darts.  The stretch of the fabric gives a great fit and adds a bit of movement ease. 

It’s a perfect combination of fabric and pattern.

 

This fabric would be great for another Burda pattern, 6908;

My disclaimer:  the fabrics and pattern were given to me by Distinctive Sewing Supplies, an on-line retailer in Oakville, Ontario, in exchange for sewing the shirt and blogging  about it.  And again, I think I got the best part of the deal.  Thank you Catherine.

front
left side
right front
back

I’m sew glad cooler weather is here, now I can wear it!  Often!

“Hacking” for the Fall CreativFestival

Do you recall this from my last post?

One of the classes I’m teaching on behalf of Distinctive Sewing Supplies;  at the Fall CreativFestival, at the International Center in Toronto October 26-28 (more details are coming soon)

One Pattern = 3 Different Tees
Working from a commercial sewing pattern with a round (not “V”) neckline, Yvette (that’s me)  will teach some basic pattern personalization, creating 3 adaptations, an inverted front pleat, adding an extended sleeve cap, and adding side drapes.  Suggested patterns include: Jalie 2805, Burda 6749 or 6611

So now not only am I a “Pattern Hacker” but I’ll be teaching others how to “Pattern Hack”.   Go figure.

Today I’m featuring my hack to Jalie 2805 Women’s Tee Shirts.  note:  apparently I sometimes forget to smile while concentrating on using the remote for my camera. 

I used an ITY from Distinctive Sewing Supplies in a dark navy colour, it’s so comfortable and cool to wear, that I’ll enjoy wearing it well into the cooler weather of fall.

The pattern; Jalie 2805 Women’s T-Shirts was provided to me at no charge by Distinctive Sewing Supplies, so I could make it, review it, hack it, teach the hack, and then wear it with pleasure.  It’s one of those patterns that will never go out of style, a real staple in my sewing pantry.

right front
right front
side drape
left side
side drape
side right
left

After tracing off a front and back pattern piece, I deepened the front neck, extended the shoulders to just past the shoulders, and added side drapes.

I completed my T by using a rolled edge finish for the sleeves and draped hem, and a turned to the inside band. 

In this hands-on class, you’ll arrive with the front and back of your pattern traced off, and a ruler, pencils and a roll of pattern paper, and I’ll teach you how to hack your own pattern.

I don’t have the info on the time of my class yet, but if you attend, please let me know if you follow Distinctive Sewing Supplies or my blog.

Burda Tee Shirt 6749

I still hate/dislike using the “hack” word with my sewing.  But, I guess I’d better learn to live with it…..

because……..

at the Creativfestival, Fall 2017…….

I’m teaching for Distinctive Sewing Supplies!

And one of the classes is:

One Pattern = 3 Different Tees

Working from a commercial sewing pattern with a round (not “V”) neckline, Yvette (that’s me)  will teach some basic pattern personalization, creating 3 adaptations, an inverted front pleat, adding an extended sleeve cap, and adding side drapes.  Suggested patterns include: Jalie 2805, Burda 6749 or 6611

So now not only am I a “Pattern Hacker” but I’ll be teaching others how to “Pattern Hack”.   Go figure.

I made this sample of the inverted front pleat using Burda 6749 in a soft breathable Rayon Spandex Jersey.  I was given the pattern and the fabric by Catherine, owner of Distinctive Sewing Supplies so I could test the pattern and the fabric, write this blog post, and prepare the lesson notes for our upcoming class at the Creativfestival. 

The Pattern:

Product Description;  This style has been especially designed for a close fit and for jersey fabric. The classic pattern can be used for a wide array of attractive tops, both in plain or print fabric. Sew your favourites with either short or long sleeves. Recommended fabrics: Two-way stretch jersey.  Sizes 20 to 34 (all sizes included in pattern).

I made the size 28, in view B for my sample.  I really like the shape of this top, the waist comes in for a nice feminine silhouette or it could be eliminated for a straighter figure.  The shoulders sit smoothly and don’t appear extra wide like in some plus sized patterns.  The neckline has a flattering shape.   I shortened the long sleeves to 3/4.  Many people (like me) push a long sleeve up to just below the elbow anyway.

The Fabric:

The rayon-spandex fabric is soft, breathable and drapey. It is suitable for t-shirts, cardigans and flowing skirts.

Other Details
Content:  95% Rayon 5% Spandex
Width:  148 cm / 58″
Fabric Weight:  190 gsm / 5.6 osy
 
This fabric is very soft, stretchy and is so comfortable to wear.  I’ve found that as I’m aging, my internal thermostat is set high and I’m warm most of the time.  I’ve made a few garments in this fabric and it’s COOL and breathes.  Here’s a link to my post reviewing Jalie Raglan Tee 3245,                  click here.
 

Some Construction Tips:

  • Work on a large surface with no fabric hanging off the edge.
  • if the selvedges seem “pulled” trim them off before pinning your pattern onto the fabric.
  • Use sharp pins.
  • Cut with a rotary cutter, ruler and a mat.
  • Sew with a new needle, I use a 75/11 for knits.
  • Stabilize the neck and front shoulders with a fusible knit interfacing.

More information is coming regarding the Creativfestival Fall 2017 and I’ll keep you updated.  In the meantime, if you’re interested in taking my class, order your pattern soon, to avoid disappointment.  

Are you a “Pattern Hacker”? 

Front Closing Sports Bra with snaps

Is there such a thing as a comfortable bra?   Until now, I had never worn one.   I mean a comfortable one.   50 years of discomfort.  Done.

Meet COMFORT!

  

 Meet PRETTY!

I used fabric remnants from previous projects, both are a rayon spandex jersey with 4 way stretch which were provided to me by Distinctive Sewing Supplies, an on-line retailer based in Oakville Ontario.   It is one of the most comfortable fabrics I’ve ever worn.

Burda 6749 front
left front

And this is the most comfortable bra I have ever worn.  The pattern is from Lingerie Secrets, “Front Closing” Sports Bra.

I used plastic snaps on an added placket to close the front, and a pretty lace elastic around the neck and arms instead of a hidden finish that’s described in the pattern.

My sewing instructions are geared to sewing a size Large, A cup. Measurements for other sizes may differ, so please follow the instructions included with your pattern.

Here’s how I made the Plackets:

After cutting out the bra, back and front, I fused 2 pieces of medium weight fusible interfacing cut 4 1/2 inches by 3 inches, to the wrong side of a leftover piece of fabric.  Cut out after it cools.

Fold each in half with right sides together long-ways and sew the short ends using 1/4″ seam allowance.

Clip the corners at the fold, then turn right side out, press and set aside for later.

To Sew the Bra:  Note:  the center front and the sides look very similar once the pattern paper comes off, so I suggest marking the center fronts until you’ve sewn the side seams.  I used safety pins.

Sew the shoulders and the side seams.  My fabric was very soft so I slipped a strip of water soluble stabilizer underneath the seam and sewed over it.  I used my sewing machine and first seamed with a narrow zig zag, then finished the edges with a triple zig zag.  The stabilizer will disappear in the first washing.

Attaching the Decorative Elastic:

The instructions use a hidden elastic application, and is very clear to follow.  I, however, have quite a “bit” of pretty elastic, and wanted the edge of it to show on the finished bra.

Attaching the elastic is a 2-step process.  Start by putting the right side of the elastic on the right side of the fabric, with the straight edge of the elastic even with the raw edge of the fabric.  Use a fairly wide, long zig zag, width and length at 5mm. 

 

For the neckline, follow the pattern instructions, and begin the elastic 1/4 inch from the center front.  I found that my machine wanted to “eat” the fabric when I did that, so I put the elastic on top, extending the end past the center front, BUT began sewing 1/4″ in from the front edge.  I trimmed off the excess later.

The first inch of elastic is sewn on without stretching it, but then, (for my size) the instructions say to stretch 2 inches of elastic over 3 inches of fabric.  Hmmmmmm, here’s how I tackled that.  With a heat away pen, I marked a dot on the elastic 2 inches from the needle.  Then I marked a spot on the fabric 3 inches from the needle, stretched the elastic so the marks were together and stitched to the mark.

 The same process was used at the center back.  Then the elastic was folded to the inside so the scalloped edge extended beyond the fabric edge and top-stitched with the same sized zig zag to finish.

The elastic along the bottom was sewn according to the pattern instructions.

To Complete the Front with the Placket for Snaps:

Gather each center front edge with 2 rows of basting stitches as described in the pattern instructions.  Gather each front to fit inside the open edge of the placket pieces you set aside earlier.  Pin to hold, then use a wide zig zag along the open edge of the placket to sew through all layers.

Attach the snaps according to the directions with the snaps.

I hope you enjoy wearing your new bra as much as I am comfortable in mine.

Folkwear #108 Turkish Dancer Jacket

Do you see a jacket on the pattern cover?

I didn’t, at first.  In a previous post about this pattern, I wrote about my linen sundress.

I wore this dress when I was at Quilt Canada helping my friend Catherine, owner of Distinctive Sewing Supplies.  It was a popular pattern, and so was the fabric.  Both sold well.  But, I was cold.  I needed sleeves, there was a jacket pattern included with Turkish Dancer, AND Distinctive Sewing Supplies had the perfect fabric.

Sew, a jacket was born!  My disclaimer; the fabric was supplied to me at no charge in exchange for my making and writing about the jacket.  Again, it’s my pleasure. 

Every single piece of fabric I have from Distinctive Sewing Supplies has been great to sew.  I’ve had no surprises, each piece has been exactly as it was described on the website. 

I traced off a size medium, lengthening the body and the sleeves by 2 inches. 

Only 3 pieces, it didn’t take long to cut out. 

The edges are designed to be finished with bias binding turned to the inside, but I wanted to take it up a notch.  I like the idea of bias binding, but chose to turn it to the out-side and leave the edge raw, unfinished, and brushed for texture.  The inside is smooth and perfectly finished.

frayed bias binding
bias trim

I cut enough 1.25 inch wide strips to go around the entire jacket as well as the bottoms of both sleeves then joined them to make one long strip.  The seam allowance was trimmed to 1/4inch and pressed open.

The only change I made to the pattern, other than lengthening it, was to round off the bottom front a bit by tracing a container and trimming off the excess.

Construction of the jacket was simple, and I used my serger to finish the edges.  I also used my serger with the differential set to the largest setting to gather the sleeve caps between the notches. 

After setting in the sleeves and sewing the side seams it was time to apply the prepared bias trim.  I started at the bottom dean a side-seam and sewed the right side of the trim (using 1/4 inch seam allowance) to the wrong side of the jacket.  I left a bit un-sewn at the beginning so I could join the strip at the end.  After joining the beginning and ending on the bias and pressing the seam allowance open, I completed attaching it and trimmed off the points.

To finish it, fold the trim to the right side, wrapping the seam allowance.  Sew from the wrong side, “in the ditch”.

I used a toothbrush to fluff the raw edge.

 

 

inside
back
jacket
right side

What do you think?  I love this little jacket and will make more.

I’d love to read some comments……..

Sewing Projects after Quilt Canada

I helped my friend Catherine Goetz, owner of Distinctive Sewing Supplies, at Quilt Canada 2017.  In case you don’t know, Distinctive Sewing Supplies is not a quilt shop.  Catherine focuses on quality garment fabrics and great sewing patterns. 

We had a great time, the booth was a popular place, especially after Catherine’s Trunk Shows.  It was a 4-day show, and I think we spent the entire time thinking and talking about sewing. 

Customers’ sewing, and our next sewing projects.  I wore my Folkwear “Turkish Dancer” dress a couple of times and received many compliments on it.  Everyone who asked about the pattern was amazed at the transformation.   I wrote about how I did it here.

another front
Turkish Dancer 108 Cover

But I was cold and would have loved a little jacket.    There’s a jacket pattern included in the same envelope, and Distinctive Sewing Supplies has the perfect piece of fabric, a linen/cotton blend in the perfect colour to go with me dress.  It came home with me.

These stretch poplin prints are new, at 58 inches wide and at 97% cotton and  3% spandex, they co-ordinate well and there’s a great pattern. 

I have a few classes for Distinctive Sewing Supplies in the works for the Fall Creativfesival, and am busy planning my samples and notes.

We have 3 lecture style classes proposed, one on neckline finishes, one on pockets, and one on Fashion Fabric Know-how.  A hands-on class;  “One Tee Pattern = 3 New Styles” will have my students learn some basic pattern morphing, creating 3 adaptations, an inverted front pleat, adding an extended sleeve cap, and adding side drapes.  More details will follow.

Sew, that’s what’s on the worktable at the moment, along with Rock.

 What’s on your worktable?

 

 

“Q” Section Quilting or Quilting in Sections

I made this quilt.

And I loved every (almost) block.  I also really, really like the setting.  Thank you Pat Sloan.  Asymmetrical.

I used all left-over Christmas prints from other projects, and white on white or cream background fabrics.

It was MY challenge, too.   My next challenge was to machine quilt it.  Pat’s asymmetrical layout was my inspiration.  I decided to quilt it in 3 sections, then join the sections together.

I free motion quilted section 1 all the way to the edges.  Then machine quilted most of section 2, leaving about 2 inches unquilted along the edge where it meets section 1.

I trimmed the edge of section 1’s batting and backing even with the edge that meets section 2.  Then with the right sides of the quilt pieces facing each other, I pinned all the layers of section 1 to just the top of section 2, and sewed it using 1/4 inch seam allowance.  I sewed with section 2 on top so I could keep the extra batting and backing flipped out of the way.

After sewing, flip it over to check the right side, to make sure everything matches the way it should.

On the back, finger press the seam allowance toward the single layer, and trim the batting to the edge of that seam allowance.  I used chalk to mark the cutting line.

Smooth the batting into place, then cut the excess backing fabric 1 inch beyond the edge of the seam allowance.  I found it helpful to mark the cutting line with chalk.

Fold the backing fabric to the inside so the fold extends 1/4 inch beyond the original sewing line and pin into place, pinning across the seam line.

Working from the good side, stitch in the ditch along the original seam line, which will catch the edge of the backing fabric.  Leave the pins in place (you can see them easily) , sew slowly, and walk your machine over each pin.  Remove the pins.

This picture shows the completed seam before it was pressed, it’s in the center.  Yes, it’s visible.  No, there are no quilt police in my house. 

Now you can go back and complete the unfinished machine quilting of section 2.  Section 3 is attached the same way.

I’m going to do more of this kind of machine quilting, and am certainly joining Pat Sloan in more of her projects.  Her next one is called Grandma’s Kitchen, and I hope to see you there.

Adding In-Set Side Pockets to the Sewing Workshop Pattern San Diego Coat

I need pockets in my pants and in my jackets.  If the pattern doesn’t include pockets, I add them.

This version of the San Diego Jacket is made of a soft draping stretch woven jacquard.  This is the first time I’ve sewn a garment from this fabric, and it’s although is a woven fabric, it behaves like a soft knit.   I felt that a patch pocket would add too much weight to the front and drag it down.  I chose to add inseam side pockets.

My disclosure:  The beautiful stretch woven jacquard was provided to me at no charge by Distinctive Sewing Supplies in exchange for writing a review.  This is an interesting fabric in that it has no floats, is totally reversible and the stretch is on the lengthwise grain.  

Here’s how I drafted the pattern;

Cut a piece of pattern paper 8 inches by 12 inches and draw a  line one inch in from the right edge, then mark dots on that line, 2 inches and then 8 inches from the top.

Cut 4 pockets from your main fabric.  If your main fabric is thick or heavy, you can cut 2 of a lighter-weight stable woven fabric for the front layer and 2 of your garment fabric for the back layer. 

You also need 2 strips of medium weight fusible interfacing 2 inches by 8 inches.  Mark dots along the center, one inch from each end.

Decide where on the side-seam you want your pockets.  I positioned mine so the bottom would get caught up in the hem.

Mark the dot positions on the wrong side at the side-seam, then fuse on the interfacing, matching the dots. Pin the pocket lining to the fronts, matching the dots.  Use a short stitch and sew from the edge of the side, pivot at the dot, along the straight edge, pivot, then sew to the edge.

Trim away around the seam, leaving 3/8” seam allowance.  Clip the corners just to the sewing line then turn the lining to the inside and press well.  Gently roll the seam line to the inside as you press.

With the inside of the front facing up, pin the remaining pocket piece only to the lining with the right sides together.  Sew along the top, inside and bottom, leaving the outer edge open.  I used my serger. 

Press to smooth, then baste the entire pocket bag into position onto the front, making sure that everything is even at the side-seams. 

Continue with the jacket construction.  Sewing the side-seam will complete the pocket. 

I finished my jacket with cover-stitch, including the hem, which anchored the pocket bottom.  I also  used cover-stitch around the pocket from the right side which anchored it all the way around. 

You can see it slightly in this picture.

Below is a 1 page PDF to download so you can print these instructions.

As usual, please contact me if you have any questions or comments, I welcome your feedback.

set in side seam pocket