Jalie Pleated Cardigan #2919

I LOVE this Cardigan!

It fits perfectly, it’s really comfortable, I love the colours, and I feel all dressed up!  The fabric is really soft but retains it shape very well.  It’s 95% Poly 5% Elasthanne and 150cm /60″ wide.  The fabric weight is 200 gsm / 6 osy and it’s easy care:  Gentle machine wash in cool water separately using gentle cleaner (Eucalan recommended) or hand wash. Dry flat. Press lightly on wrong side with synthetic setting if necessary.  See it by clicking here.

Order the pattern from Distinctive Sewing Supplies by clicking here.

Parts of the construction were a challenge though. 

The first challenge I ran into was keeping the cats from trying to pull the fabric off the cutting table.  They love the way ITY springs back when they let go of it.   

Then, after cutting all the pieces out,  I discovered that one of the fronts was 2 inches shorter than the other.  It was the bottom layer, and I guess the cat pulled more than I thought.  Fortunately I had enough fabric to cut another. 
Phew!

Marking the pleat lines on the right (good) side of the fabric was a challenge.  The ITY is very stretchy, so marking the lines required a marker that didn’t drag on the fabric, and that would disappear easily. 

ENTER

The Chaco Liner made by Clover! (And a bit of supervision.)

The liner is a chalk filled “pen” with a wheel that releases just enough chalk as you “drive” it along your line.  It brushed out easily, but lasted out the job.  By aligning the edge of a ruler along the fold line and then pressing it onto the fabric, I could draw a nice line without the fabric moving.  Then I pinned the pleats before sewing them.

HINT

Sew the pleats on the Right Front from the bottom and the pleats of the Left Front from the top.

Once the pleats were sewn, the cardigan went together very quickly.

It was time to stitch up the hems.  Now that I have a Cover-Stitch machine, that part was a no-brainer. 

BUT

Quite often, when hemming this weight of knit by top-stitching, the top layer tends to ripple, and it’s not a pretty look.  This book, “Knits for Real People” a Palmer/Pletsch publication, has an entire section devoted to hemming knits, and one of the suggestions was “paper-backed fusible web”

I had a scrap of Heat & Bond Feather Lite, so cut some one inch wide strips.  I fused them to the bottoms of the sleeves and the body, pulled off the paper, then fused up the hem.

The hem sewed perfectly, no ripples or puckers, and the Heat & Bond was light enough that you can’t even feel or see it.

Jalie 2919 Front
Jalie 2919 Back

 My disclaimer; I received the piece of beautiful ITY Jersey Knit in these incredible colours from Distinctive Sewing Supplies in exchange for blogging about my experience.  Please know that the opinions expressed are my own and let me repeat that I really like this cardigan.

 

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