I had this great piece of poly knit in my stash, not the plastic bag kinda poly, but a breathable one. And it’s brown. A great colour for Laura. Not me.
I trace off the pattern pieces, back, front, sleeves and the neckband.
This fabric is very soft and supple, so I feel the need to interface the neckband. If you’re a follower of my sewing, you’ll know that I keep a supply of fusible knit interfacing in my sewing room, in both black and white. (I’m going to look for it in a skin-tone, too.) I fused a piece to the wrong side of the neckband, making sure the stretch was going in the right direction. THEN I cut the points. 🙂 Much more accurate 🙂
Fold in half with wrong sides together and press well. If your knit is heat sensitive, use a press cloth and be cautious.
Lap the right side over the left side as shown. Baste by sewing together through all layers close to the raw edges. This is the right side.
I fused 2 strips of the same interfacing to the wrong side of the front, at the bottom of the “V” then straight stitched just inside the 3/8″ seam line. (Using a chalk marker and a ruler keeps it all straight) (I don’t estimate 3/8″ very well :()
Clip the seam allowance into the point, BUT DON’T CUT INTO THE STAY-STITCHING.
I then fused 1 inch wide strips of that same fusible interfacing along the shoulders and the hems of all 4 pieces.
Sew or serge the shoulder seams and press the seam allowance toward the back.
Mark center back and neck quarters with pins. Also mark the center back of the neck band. Then fold the center back fold to the point of the front and mark both sides with pins.
With right sides together pin the neckband to the neckline, matching the pins. I’ll be the first to admit that I struggled with sewing the point of the “V”. Some tips:
- Sew with the neckband down against the feed teeth (against my normal way of sewing)
- Leave the point for last
- Begin about 2 inches beyond the point and sew the remainder of the neck band.
- From the wrong side press the seam allowance of the front open.
- Stick a piece of WonderTape to both front seam allowances.
- Peel off the paper and carefully stick the neckband in place.
- Now you can sew it in place, again with the neckband against the feed teeth. The point of the front that you clipped to is your pivot point. Use a long stitch in case you need to unsew. 🙁
I did it! after “unsewing” 3 times :(, the WonderTape did it!
Then I serged around the neckband beginning and ending at the point.
Press the seam allowance away from the neckband.
Top stitch 1/8 inch from the seam line on the garment side to finish.
With right sides together serge or sew the side/underarm seams. Press.
Press up 1 inch hems on the bottom and the sleeves and use a twin needle to finish.
I’m pleased with the results. Have you sewn this variation? How did you do?