Tag Archives: bias trim

Folkwear #108 Turkish Dancer Jacket

Do you see a jacket on the pattern cover?

I didn’t, at first.  In a previous post about this pattern, I wrote about my linen sundress.

I wore this dress when I was at Quilt Canada helping my friend Catherine, owner of Distinctive Sewing Supplies.  It was a popular pattern, and so was the fabric.  Both sold well.  But, I was cold.  I needed sleeves, there was a jacket pattern included with Turkish Dancer, AND Distinctive Sewing Supplies had the perfect fabric.

Sew, a jacket was born!  My disclaimer; the fabric was supplied to me at no charge in exchange for my making and writing about the jacket.  Again, it’s my pleasure. 

Every single piece of fabric I have from Distinctive Sewing Supplies has been great to sew.  I’ve had no surprises, each piece has been exactly as it was described on the website. 

I traced off a size medium, lengthening the body and the sleeves by 2 inches. 

Only 3 pieces, it didn’t take long to cut out. 

The edges are designed to be finished with bias binding turned to the inside, but I wanted to take it up a notch.  I like the idea of bias binding, but chose to turn it to the out-side and leave the edge raw, unfinished, and brushed for texture.  The inside is smooth and perfectly finished.

frayed bias binding
bias trim

I cut enough 1.25 inch wide strips to go around the entire jacket as well as the bottoms of both sleeves then joined them to make one long strip.  The seam allowance was trimmed to 1/4inch and pressed open.

The only change I made to the pattern, other than lengthening it, was to round off the bottom front a bit by tracing a container and trimming off the excess.

Construction of the jacket was simple, and I used my serger to finish the edges.  I also used my serger with the differential set to the largest setting to gather the sleeve caps between the notches. 

After setting in the sleeves and sewing the side seams it was time to apply the prepared bias trim.  I started at the bottom dean a side-seam and sewed the right side of the trim (using 1/4 inch seam allowance) to the wrong side of the jacket.  I left a bit un-sewn at the beginning so I could join the strip at the end.  After joining the beginning and ending on the bias and pressing the seam allowance open, I completed attaching it and trimmed off the points.

To finish it, fold the trim to the right side, wrapping the seam allowance.  Sew from the wrong side, “in the ditch”.

I used a toothbrush to fluff the raw edge.

 

 

inside
back
jacket
right side

What do you think?  I love this little jacket and will make more.

I’d love to read some comments……..