Tag Archives: easy

One Bowl Rhubarb Custard Squares

Here’s an easy recipe to take advantage of a surplus of rhubarb. 

One Bowl Rhubarb Custard Squares

one bowl rhubarb squares

 

Just one bowl, first make the shortbread base, press it into the bottom of a cake pan, sprinkle on the rhubarb, then use that same bowl to mix the custard topping.  Pour it over the rhubarb, bake, cool and eat!

One-bowl Rhubarb Custard Squares
Serves 9
One bowl, 3 layers, yummy
Write a review
Print
Prep Time
10 min
Cook Time
30 min
Total Time
40 min
Prep Time
10 min
Cook Time
30 min
Total Time
40 min
Crust
  1. 1 c all purpose flour
  2. 1/4 cup brown sugar
  3. 1/4 c butter
Filling
  1. 2 c fresh not frozen rhubarb, diced
Custard
  1. 2 eggs
  2. 3/4 cup brown sugar
  3. 1/4 c flour
  4. 1/2 tsp vanilla
Instructions
  1. Preheat oven to 350°F.
  2. Blend crust ingredients. Press into ungreased 9" x 9" pan.
  3. Evenly spread the chopped rhubarb on the crust.
  4. Mix topping ingredients in the same bowl then pour it over the rhubarb.
  5. Bake at 350F for about 30 minutes or till crust is golden brown.
SewWhatYvette? http://www.sewwhatyvette.com/

 

 

Old Mexico Dress/Blouse

I’ve had this pattern, Old Mexico Dress by Folkwear in my collection for a while now, it was given to me by my friend Catherine last year in exchange for modelling for Distinctive Sewing Supplies at the CreativFestival.  My intention was (and it might still happen) to make a summer nightgown for one of my daughters in a lightweight cotton voile.

Catherine made the dress in a dark coloured rayon batik, and it convinced me to make one for myself.  The pattern comes in 3 suggested lengths, blouse, hip and dress.  The hip length appealed to me, to wear over slim jeans, and I had the perfect piece of fabric. 

I traced off the pattern in size medium, checked the finished length (it was fine) , then pinned and cut out my blouse. 

As a certified Islander Sewing System teacher, I often analyze construction methods and adapt them to make my sewing easier and more professional.

Attaching the pleated front and back into the yoke was made much easier using the “burrito method”.  (And appropriate, too, for a Mexican pattern) Note how tidy the inside is.

I also sewed the sleeves in flat, (using my serger) instead of “inserting” them, then serged the side-seam up to, but not including the pre-pressed sleeve hem.

The sleeve hems and the bottom were finished with a single needle top-stitch, and a light pressing.  Done.  Now I’m ready for some warm weather.

Do you have this pattern?  Have you made it?  Thoughts?

Jalie Pleated Cardigan #2919

I LOVE this Cardigan!

It fits perfectly, it’s really comfortable, I love the colours, and I feel all dressed up!  The fabric is really soft but retains it shape very well.  It’s 95% Poly 5% Elasthanne and 150cm /60″ wide.  The fabric weight is 200 gsm / 6 osy and it’s easy care:  Gentle machine wash in cool water separately using gentle cleaner (Eucalan recommended) or hand wash. Dry flat. Press lightly on wrong side with synthetic setting if necessary.  See it by clicking here.

Order the pattern from Distinctive Sewing Supplies by clicking here.

Parts of the construction were a challenge though. 

The first challenge I ran into was keeping the cats from trying to pull the fabric off the cutting table.  They love the way ITY springs back when they let go of it.   

Then, after cutting all the pieces out,  I discovered that one of the fronts was 2 inches shorter than the other.  It was the bottom layer, and I guess the cat pulled more than I thought.  Fortunately I had enough fabric to cut another. 
Phew!

Marking the pleat lines on the right (good) side of the fabric was a challenge.  The ITY is very stretchy, so marking the lines required a marker that didn’t drag on the fabric, and that would disappear easily. 

ENTER

The Chaco Liner made by Clover! (And a bit of supervision.)

The liner is a chalk filled “pen” with a wheel that releases just enough chalk as you “drive” it along your line.  It brushed out easily, but lasted out the job.  By aligning the edge of a ruler along the fold line and then pressing it onto the fabric, I could draw a nice line without the fabric moving.  Then I pinned the pleats before sewing them.

HINT

Sew the pleats on the Right Front from the bottom and the pleats of the Left Front from the top.

Once the pleats were sewn, the cardigan went together very quickly.

It was time to stitch up the hems.  Now that I have a Cover-Stitch machine, that part was a no-brainer. 

BUT

Quite often, when hemming this weight of knit by top-stitching, the top layer tends to ripple, and it’s not a pretty look.  This book, “Knits for Real People” a Palmer/Pletsch publication, has an entire section devoted to hemming knits, and one of the suggestions was “paper-backed fusible web”

I had a scrap of Heat & Bond Feather Lite, so cut some one inch wide strips.  I fused them to the bottoms of the sleeves and the body, pulled off the paper, then fused up the hem.

The hem sewed perfectly, no ripples or puckers, and the Heat & Bond was light enough that you can’t even feel or see it.

Jalie 2919 Front
Jalie 2919 Back

 My disclaimer; I received the piece of beautiful ITY Jersey Knit in these incredible colours from Distinctive Sewing Supplies in exchange for blogging about my experience.  Please know that the opinions expressed are my own and let me repeat that I really like this cardigan.

 

Jalie Raglan Tee 3245 Completed

Finished! 

I was waiting for a “new-to-me” cover-stitch machine in order to complete the hems.  It arrived, I practiced a bit, then jumped in.  I am really glad I added it to my machine collection.  It was easy to thread and this fabric was a breeze to hem.

I had already fused 1 inch wide strips of a lightweight knit interfacing to the sleeve and bottom hem and pressed the hems along the fold before sewing anything.  That step made the cover-stitching easy.

My disclaimer; I received the piece of beautiful Rayon Spandex in my favourite shades of blue from Distinctive Sewing Supplies in exchange for blogging about my experience.  Please know that the opinions expressed are my own.

The fabric is really comfortable to wear, it’s really soft, and not hot on my skin.   It’s 95% Rayon 5% Spandex, 60 inches or 152 cm wide, and 210 gsm/6.19 osy. What the heck is that????  Click here to read a post by Catherine of Distinctive Sewing Supplies.  It explains it very well.

I’m going to use this pattern again!  With a couple of changes; I’ll shorten it a bit, and raise the neckline by 2 inches at the front.  If I’m not careful, too much of me shows.  I’m going to shorten this one, to “finger-tip length”.  It will still cover my fluffy bits, even when I wear leggings under it, but right now when I look at the photos, I get the impression that it looks “big”.

I’ll add a photo of the shortened version. 

Jalie Raglan Tee 3245

You might recognize this pattern, it’s the same one I used to make the racer-back  cami (view C) shown on the bottom left. 

Read about it by clicking here.

 

I received this piece of fabric from Distinctive Sewing Supplies to make view B, without the pockets.  It’s 60 inches wide and 95% Rayon 5% Spandex

If you want a new Tee for your wardrobe, and like the idea of a raglan sleeve, you need to make this!  All the sewing was complete in an hour, and the hemming will take less than that, so it’s a “2 HOUR TEE”.

I chose to make a size that is 3 up from my body measurements.  That’s my personal choice. 

My suggestion is to measure the finished width of a top or two that you like the fit of and use that as a guide. 

The neck binding went really smoothly, and I love the way this fabric drapes.  A warning though; it’s very soft and stretchy, and my rough hands meant the fabric clung to my fingers.  Hand lotion solved that problem.

My disclaimer; I received the piece of beautiful Rayon Spandex in my favourite shades of blue from Distinctive Sewing Supplies in exchange for blogging about my experience.  Please know that the opinions expressed are my own.

I liked making this pattern so much that I ordered another fabric from Distinctive Sewing Supplies that I’d been lusting after.  It’s a 85% Poly 10% Rayon 5% Spandex and I’ll be sewing it up using this same pattern as soon as possible.  Of course I’m going to make a change, I’ll raise the front neckline by 2 inches.  Watch for a review in a few weeks.

Easy Fabric Wallet with Pockets

This idea has been growing  in my brain for a while now, and finally it bore fruit.  I’m not the sort of gal that carries a purse with me, but I do need my essentials; small note-book, cash, and cards.fabric wallet with pockets

fabric wallet with pockets

fabric wallet with pockets

I designed it with 3 pockets inside and a snap closure to keep it closed.

 

 

 

Here’s how:

Cut a piece of pattern paper 5 1/2 inches wide by 20 inches long.  Fold it in half longways and use a small plate, bowl or container to trace a curve for the top.  Trace, cut through both layers,

then unfold.

img_4245

With a ruler, mark both edges, measuring from the straight edge: 6.25 inches, 9 inches, 12 inches, 15 inches, and 18 inches.

At the 18 inch, just mark the edges.  At 15 inches, draw a line and call it “A”.  At 12 inches, draw a line and call it “B”.  At 9 inches, draw a line and call it “C”.  At the 6.25 draw a line and call it “D”.

pattern-for-fabric-wallet-with-pockets

Pin the paper to your lining, or inner fabric, cut out and transfer all the lines and marks to the right side of the fabric.

With wrong sides of fabric together, fold at lines “D” and “B” then press in a crease.  With the right side of the fabric up, bring the “D” fold up to meet the “B” fold, but just 1/4 inch below it.  Then bring both folds up to meet the mark at 18″.  The lines at “C” and “A” will fold to the inside.  Press well and pin to hold all layers together.

folded lining

This folded piece is the pattern for the outer fabric and the fusible fleece.  

I CAN’T BELIEVE THAT I FORGOT TO FUSE THE FLEECE  INTO THIS WALLET!!!!!

Pin the right side of the pocket piece to the right side of the outer fabric and cut out.  Do the same for the fusible fleece.  Fuse the fleece to the wrong side of the outer fabric, (please use your imagination and pretend that you see it.)

img_4257

Sew both layers together with 1/4 inch seam allowance, starting and stopping on the straight end, about an inch and a half from the corner to leave an opening for turning. 

Watch that it all lays flat, oops.oopsClip the corners and along the curves.  The curves are easily done with pinking shears.  Before turning, fold and press both the lining and the outer fabric seam allowance toward the wrong side of each fabric along the seam line.  Turn to the right side out, poking out the corners to make them sharp, and press well.

Stitching close to the edge of the fabric, sew across the entire straight edge, which will close the opening.  I sewed with the outer fabric up. 

note; if your fabric colours are different for the lining and the outer fabric, you might need to change your bobbin colour from here on in.

finished bottom

Fold the bottom up toward the top, it should just barely cover the top edge of the pockets.  Pin and sew the sides, forming the wallet.

finished wallet with pockets

Add snaps to keep it closed.  I used plastic snaps, positioning the outer one about 1/2 inch above the edge of the fabric, then putting the inner one on last.

I’m a real fan of these plastic snaps, they attach easily, are very secure, are machine wash and dryable, and come in loads of colours.  I used to buy them locally, but now get them from Amazon.ca, here’s a link for more information.

After making the one shown above, I had another brain wave, to add a small strap with a couple of snaps to attach my keys, or to attach the wallet to a belt loop.

fabric wallet with pockets and loop

Here’s how I went about it.  I cut a piece of fabric 2 inches by 6 inches.  Press the short ends in by 1/4 inch, then press in half with wrong sides together, longways.

strap in half longways

Open the strap out and press each raw edge to the inner fold.  Refold in the middle and press well.

strap pressed

Edge-stitch 1/8 from the edge.

edge stitched strap

Fold in half and press well.  Position the strap on the outer wallet piece, so it lays just above the pocket, having the fold even with the outer edge of the fabric.img_4268

Pin the folded lining fabric on top and proceed to sew and finish as the above wallet.  I put a snap on each strap end so I could attach it to something.fabric wallet with pockets and loop

These are a great scrap-buster and I’m going to make plenty more of them.  The link below will open a one-page PDF that’s printable.  Have fun!

fabric-wallet-with-pockets

 

 

An Easy Tanktop with Style

I’ve been spending a lot of time in my garden, enjoying my vegies, planting the last of the seeds, watching the critters at the feeders, and taking lots of pictures.

As a result, I’m getting a golden glow on my arms.  But my shoulders and upper arms are white, so, it was time to sew a tank-top or two.  For a mature person.  No gaping, no bra straps showing. Continue reading An Easy Tanktop with Style

Adelaide Dress

Seamwork Adelaide fusciaSummer is coming!  We’ve had a cool spring, but the heat and humidity is on it’s way!  (I hope)  Does the idea of a simple dress, with front bust and back waist darts and a front snap closure make you think of a hot summer day as you stay cool? 

This pattern is being featured on the Seamwork website this month for $5, with sizing from 0 to 26.

Seamwork adelaideAnother view from the Seamwork page, this one is in a cool cotton print that looks refreshing.

This next one is in a print that just screams my name, I found this version on la Petite Josette blog.

Petite Josette Adelaide dress

Here’s the outline drawing which shows the details really well.

Seamwork Adelaide outline

I have a piece of cotton poly in a nice weight that would be perfect.  It’s in my stash, and will be perfect to test this pattern out with.  fabric for Adelaide dress

 

 

 

IMG_3798This pattern is a download, and there are many pages to print. 

If you’ve not done this before, be sure to print off the first page of the pattern first, and make sure you are “printing to size”, not fitting to the page.  There’s a square to measure, check it, then if it’s the right size, go ahead and print the rest of the pattern.

It was easy to assemble, even with my cutting table assistant.  There are guide marks on every page.   Then I traced my size onto a sheet of tissue paper.   I wanted to keep the master pattern intact until I know that the size I chose fits me.  I’m sewing the size 12.

After tracing and cutting the pieces out, I held the front piece to my body and checked in the mirror.  The front darts are about 1 inch too high.  I’m fairly tall, 5 ft 10 inches, so generally add an inch in the body length anyway.  I added it between the bottom of the armhole and the top of the dart at the same place front and back.

IMG_3799

 

I also used the longest length instead of the line for size 12.

 

 

 

 

I didn’t print off the instructions, but read them over before I began sewing, then referred to them a few times as I needed to.  There are some great sewing techniques built into this project.  The stay-stitching around the neck and armholes is really important! 

I only did the back darts at half the width indicated, and curved them a bit at the widest point.

I must confess that I didn’t do the armhole bias finish as described.  Instead, I left the side-seams unsewn, applied the first step of attaching the bias, then sewed the side-seams before top-stitching the bias down to the inside.

underarm bias finish

When I finished the placket by folding it to the right side along the fold, I also finished it at the hem the same way, but used 1/2″ seam allowance.

page 13

When it gets turned outward, it’s perfect.  Notice my assistant.

hem step 1

IMG_4642

 

 

 

 

I used plastic snaps and they went on easily.  I really like these, they’re the “Babyville” brand, and I’m going to get more in different colours.

plastic snaps

Adelaide
Adelaide Dress

 

My observations:

  • I’m going to make this dress again, I really like it!  I was a bit concerned about the bare shoulders, but it’s fine.
  • The next time I make it I’ll make size 14 and sew the back darts according to the pattern (I already have it traced onto tissue)
  • I’m going to draft a neck and armhole facing for my next version
  • I’m also making the neck a 3/8th of an inch narrower at the shoulders, making the shoulder 3/8 of an inch wider on the neck side.
  • I had a little issue with the tie belt.  By cutting it according to the pattern, there was a lot of seam allowance bunched up in the point, even after trimming the excess off.  If you change the pattern and cut the ends as an outward point instead of an inward point, that problem is alleviated.  Drawn in red, below.belt fix

Do you want to make this dress?  If yes, follow the link above to the website where you can buy it. 

Tee with Inverted Front Pleat

left view

Only look at the tee, not my facial expression, please.  I was so intent on watching the timer on the camera that I forgot to smile.

With summer just around the corner, a couple of new tees were in order.  I picked this fabric, and a couple of others when a local fabric store was having a sale.  It’s a nice, soft, ITY knit.  (Read more about ITY’s by clicking here.)

I used a tried and true pattern, MacPhee Model Tee

323 model Tee

By angling the front pattern piece on the fabric I added a couple of inches to the width of the front neckline.  The pic shows a different tee with a larger pleat that I had a photo of.  For the top I’m wearing I pivoted the pattern piece so the neckline was just 2 inches from the fold.  I also straightened the bottom like the photo.

pattern hack

After cutting out the front, I marked the neckline where the original would have been, also at the fold, then with the front folded with right sides together I used a straight stitch and sewed a 2 inch “seam” following the line of the original fold. 

I opened out the extra bit of fabric, matched the mark made for the center front to the sewing line and opened out the fabric to make the pleat.   I basted it just inside the 3/8 inch seam allowance.

inside of pleat

stabilized shoulders

You’ll notice that I used a fusible interfacing to stabilize the shoulders.

To finish the neckline on this top, I measured around the unfinished neckline, it was 62 centimeters, multiplied by .8 = 49.6.  I rounded to 50 cm and cut the band 1 inch wide with the 50 cm going with the stretch. 

After joining the short ends, I quarter marked both the neckband and the neckline, matched the marks and serged the band on with neck finishthe right sides together. 

To finish the band I turned it and the seam to the inside, wrapping the band around the serging, then sewed it from the right side, 1/4″ from the edge, enclosing the serging.   I carefully trimmed off the excess band. 

right view

Then the sleeves went in, the side-seams serged, and a rolled edge for the hems on the sleeves and the bottom.  I like it! And it looks great with my 7th pair of Jalie Pull-on Jeans.

Now the sun is out, so it’s outside time.

 

Free Pattern for Barbie Pants in Knit Fabric

OMG, I don’t even have a picture.  I sent all my Barbie clothes to my friend’s grand-daughter and have no picture of these. 

And my sewing machine is in the shop getting a little repair, so I couldn’t even make a new pair. 

Oh well, here it goes, a free pattern for Barbie pants using stable knit fabric.

The link is below, what do you think?

knit pants