How can a pattern that’s this easy to make, look sew good?
I made view C.
If you are an average build and height, once you have the pieces cut out (and there are only four pattern pieces!) and prepped, the sewing is sew easy that you could be wearing it in a couple of hours.
Why did I sew this particular pattern in this particular fabric?
Because I love to sew and write about the experience , and Catherine Goetz, owner of Distinctive Sewing Supplies in Oakville, Ontario sent me the pattern, the fabric, and a bottle of Eucalan in exchange for me writing a blog post about my experience, and reviewing the pattern. (I think I got the better deal)
I was delighted to see that each piece of fabric came in a clear plastic bag with an incredibly informative label. Here’s the ITY label;
(It was smooth when it arrived, but then it became a cat play-thing)
The first step was pre-washing the ITY in the Eucalan. I soaked it in lukewarm water and Eucalan. No rinsing, just spin dry and a short bounce in a low heat drier. The ITY didn’t shrink at all, didn’t need pressing and retained it’s soft drape and sheen.
What is ITY? Catherine wrote a blog post, you can read it by clicking here. ITY
My next step was to trace off a copy of the pattern in my size. According to my measurements I wear a “Z” in the Jalie pattern line. At 5 ft 10 inches, I always add one inch to the body length and one inch to the sleeve length. I keep a roll of Exam Table Paper in my sewing room for pattern tracing, pattern alterations, and pattern drafting. It’s something I can’t sew without.
There is a “Lengthen/Shorten” line printed on the front, back and sleeve pieces. Actually there are two parallel lines very close together. The idea of it is that you cut between them and spread or overlap, depending if you want to lengthen or shorten the piece.
Because I trace my pattern pieces, I added the one inch as part of my tracing.
Here’s how I did the sleeve. (btw, the original sleeve pattern piece is a half sleeve, designed to be cut on the fold. I used a piece of pattern paper large enough for the entire sleeve and folded it in half. It’s thin enough to see through so I can lengthen it, and when I cut it out and unfold it, I’ll have a complete sleeve pattern.)
I made a short video of this process
Trace the top and upper part of the sleeve to the lengthen/shorten line. Trace it, then, because I need to add one inch, I draw a parallel line 1 inch away from the first line. Then, keeping the fold of the paper even with the fold line of the original, slide the paper up until the second line is on top of the lengthen/shorten line on the pattern. Continue to trace the rest of the sleeve. There will be a bit of a “hic-up” along the seam-line where you added the inch, to smooth it use a dressmakers curved ruler. This is like the one I use. (I have the one my Mom used, and it’s not quite the same)
Then I cut out my pattern piece and unfolded it to get a full sleeve pattern.
My extra fine glass headed pins went through the the stretchy ITY easily. My regular pins didn’t do as well. Flat button-head or flower head pins would also work very well, especially if you use a rotary blade for cutting out. My mat is too small so I use scissors.
I made a (very)small clip into the ITY at all the notches instead of cutting out around the triangles.
My next step was to fuse one-inch wide strips of fusible tricot interfacing to the front shoulders and to all the hems. I save my scraps (it’s the Dutch in me) and cut them into one inch wide strips with my rotary cutter. The straight of grain strips went on the shoulders (to prevent stretching) and the cross-grain strips got fused to the hems (to retain the stretch). I overlapped the shorter pieces as I applied them.
I was ready to sew!
Follow along with me to my next post 🙂
And chapter three, where I make a few alterations