Tag Archives: knits

Jalie Raglan Tee 3245 Completed

Finished! 

I was waiting for a “new-to-me” cover-stitch machine in order to complete the hems.  It arrived, I practiced a bit, then jumped in.  I am really glad I added it to my machine collection.  It was easy to thread and this fabric was a breeze to hem.

I had already fused 1 inch wide strips of a lightweight knit interfacing to the sleeve and bottom hem and pressed the hems along the fold before sewing anything.  That step made the cover-stitching easy.

My disclaimer; I received the piece of beautiful Rayon Spandex in my favourite shades of blue from Distinctive Sewing Supplies in exchange for blogging about my experience.  Please know that the opinions expressed are my own.

The fabric is really comfortable to wear, it’s really soft, and not hot on my skin.   It’s 95% Rayon 5% Spandex, 60 inches or 152 cm wide, and 210 gsm/6.19 osy. What the heck is that????  Click here to read a post by Catherine of Distinctive Sewing Supplies.  It explains it very well.

I’m going to use this pattern again!  With a couple of changes; I’ll shorten it a bit, and raise the neckline by 2 inches at the front.  If I’m not careful, too much of me shows.  I’m going to shorten this one, to “finger-tip length”.  It will still cover my fluffy bits, even when I wear leggings under it, but right now when I look at the photos, I get the impression that it looks “big”.

I’ll add a photo of the shortened version. 

Chapter Three in the Jalie #2921 Scarf Collar Top

Prepping

Sewing

The two links above take you to the first and second post

Chapter Three in the Jalie #2921 Scarf Collar Top

Looks great doesn’t it?  And as long as I hold in my tummy and stand up straight it looks fantastic!  But OMG when I forget!


Just for the record, that beautiful piece of fabric, Jalie pattern #2921, and a bottle of Eucalan were provided to me at no charge by Distinctive Sewing Supplies in Oakville Ontario in exchange for my sewing this great top and blogging about it.  Click on the link to visit Catherine’s website and see the other patterns and great fabrics she carries.  The quality and prices are excellent. And now you can earn points and reap rewards for shopping there!  And you don’t even have to leave the house!


So, lets get back to my dilemma, it’s a beautiful blouse, but it’s tighter than I like.  I read some reviews on PatternReview.com and there were quite a few comments on the “close to the body” fit. After measuring the finished circumference of a few tops I like, I decided to go up by 2 sizes.   I had enough fabric to cut a new front, back and scarf, but was short by 54 centimeters for the sleeves.  Catherine was quick to oblige and a piece of fabric was here in a matter of days.

I lengthened all the pieces like in part one of this post, and raised the front neckline by 2 inches, then re-drew the new neckline with the aid of my Design Curve.

Then I followed all of the same steps outlines in chapter one, and sewed the top together.  The sewing took less than two hours!

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scarf collar top
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And I’m delighted with the outcome.  I’ll wear this one! 

Doesn’t this make you want to make one for yourself?

 

Jalie # 2921 Scarf Collar Top, Sewing it up

It’s time to sew!

This is part two of a three part post about my experience sewing and fitting the Jalie #2921 Scarf collar top. 

Part One is HERE.

ITY can be a bit of a slippery beast to tame, (thanks for that line  Lorna), so I elected to use my sewing machine for construction instead of the serger.  I used a “lightening stitch” (lengthened), 1/4 inch seam allowance and a Stretch 75/11 needle for all the seams.

 I started sewing using my dual feed foot, but soon changed it for my flat bottomed “A” foot.  The constant pressure of the flat foot held the fabric more securely than the dual feed foot.

 The included instructions were very clear and easy to follow.  The diagrams were also very helpful.  The instructions are also available as a stand-alone PDF on the Jalie website, so you can print them and keep them handy.

I followed the instructions provided for the most part, but did make a couple of very minor changes. 

  • Attaching the collar using the burrito method is brilliant!  It’s attached in two stages, first the right side of the scarf is sewn to the wrong side of the garment neckline.  Second, the entire body is rolled up and the other side of the scarf is wrapped around it then sewn from one point, up the length, then along the original seam line and back down the other side.  I found that if I sewed the second step with the first line of stitching up and visible, that I was able to sew directly on top of the original sewing line, so I didn’t have to worry about it showing through to the right side. 

  • I also elected to leave the space for turning along one side instead of the bottom.  For me it made the hand-sewing the opening closed easier.

I did experience some issues with my sewing machine trying to eat my fabric at the beginning and ending of the scarf, but quickly solved it by slipping a scrap of pattern paper underneath the fabric and sewing through it all.  The paper tore away easily afterward.

The rest of the construction went smoothly. 

There is a small opening left unsewn just below the neckline in the center front seam, and that’s where the scarf comes through to the front.  I fused short strips of 1/4 inch wide Steam a Seam to the wrong side of the seam allowances after sewing, peeled off the paper, then fused the seam allowance open to stabilize it.

The hole is hard to see, but it’s between the arrows.

I used this twin needle for all the hems, the fusible knit interfacing made it smooth and easy.

Photo time!  I love this top!  The fabric is sew comfortable to wear, the colour is perfect for me, and the style is a bit dressy, but not too much.  Thank you sew much Catherine and Distinctive Sewing Supplies!

But……

It fits tighter that I’m used to, and with my already long neck, and no cleavage to show off, I feel a bit exposed. 

front left
front right 3
front

Sew……….

I’m going to sew it again, larger, and I’m going to raise the neckline by two inches.

That will be the next post.  Stay tuned…….for Chapter Three

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jalie #2921 Scarf Collar Top, my First Steps

How can a pattern that’s this easy to make, look sew good?

I made view C.

If you are an average build and height, once you have the pieces cut out (and there are only four pattern pieces!) and prepped, the sewing is sew easy that you could be wearing it in a couple of hours.

Why did I sew this particular pattern in this particular fabric?

Because I love to sew and write about the experience , and Catherine Goetz,  owner of Distinctive Sewing Supplies in Oakville,  Ontario sent me the pattern, the fabric, and a bottle of Eucalan in exchange for me writing a blog post about my experience, and reviewing the pattern.  (I think I got the better deal) 

I was delighted to see that each piece of fabric came in a clear plastic bag with an incredibly informative label.  Here’s the ITY label;

(It was smooth when it arrived, but then it became a cat play-thing)

The first step was pre-washing the ITY in the Eucalan. I  soaked it in lukewarm water and Eucalan.  No rinsing, just spin dry and a short bounce in a low heat drier.   The ITY didn’t shrink at all, didn’t need pressing and retained it’s soft drape and sheen.

What is ITY?  Catherine wrote a blog post, you can read it by clicking here.     ITY

My next step was to trace off a copy of the pattern in my size.  According to my measurements I wear a “Z” in the Jalie pattern line.  At 5 ft 10 inches, I always add one inch to the body length and one inch to the sleeve length.  I keep a roll of Exam Table Paper in my sewing room for pattern tracing, pattern alterations, and pattern drafting.  It’s something I can’t sew without.

There is a “Lengthen/Shorten” line printed on the front, back and sleeve pieces.  Actually there are two parallel lines very close together.   The idea of it is that you cut between them and spread or overlap, depending if you want to lengthen or shorten the piece. 

Because I trace my pattern pieces, I added the one inch as part of my tracing. 

Here’s how I did the sleeve.  (btw, the original sleeve pattern piece is a half sleeve, designed to be cut on the fold.  I used a piece of pattern paper large enough for the entire sleeve and folded it in half.  It’s thin enough to see through so I can lengthen it, and when I cut it out and unfold it, I’ll have a complete sleeve pattern.)

I made a short video of this process

 

Trace the top and upper part of the sleeve to the lengthen/shorten line.  Trace it, then, because I need to add one inch, I draw a parallel line 1 inch away from the first line.  Then, keeping the fold of the paper even with the fold line of the original, slide the paper up until the second line is on top of the lengthen/shorten line on the pattern.  Continue to trace the rest of the sleeve.  There will be a bit of a “hic-up” along the seam-line where you added the inch, to smooth it use a dressmakers curved ruler.  This is like the one I use. (I have the one my Mom used, and it’s not quite the same)

Then I cut out my pattern piece and unfolded it to get a full sleeve pattern.

My extra fine glass headed pins went through the the stretchy ITY easily.  My regular pins didn’t do as well.  Flat button-head or flower head pins would also work very well, especially if you use a rotary blade for cutting out.  My mat is too small so I use scissors.

I made a (very)small clip into the ITY at all the notches instead of cutting out around the triangles.

My next step was to fuse one-inch wide strips of fusible tricot interfacing to the front shoulders and to all the hems.  I save my scraps (it’s the Dutch in me) and cut them into one inch wide strips with my rotary cutter.  The straight of grain strips went on the shoulders (to prevent stretching) and the cross-grain strips got fused to the hems (to retain the stretch).  I overlapped the shorter pieces as I applied them. 

fused to shoulders bmp
fused to hem bmp

I was ready to sew! 

Follow along with me to my next post 🙂

And chapter three, where I make a few alterations