Tag Archives: stretch denim

Jalie Stretch Jeans 2908, The Fly Zipper

Does the mere thought of sewing a fly zipper give you a hot flash?

There are many steps, but each single step was easy.  If you’ve not done this before, don’t be afraid.  The instructions included with this pattern were pretty good. 

My disclaimer; I received this pattern and the piece of beautiful stretch denim from Distinctive Sewing Supplies in exchange for blogging about my experience.  Please know that the opinions expressed will be my own.

I had one moment when what I thought I was reading, wasn’t.  Step 24(a) reads:  On right side of front, top-stitch 3 mm (1/8’’) right of center front (fig. 24a – view from right side of front.

As you see it, not as you wear it.

After that it was clear sailing.  So clear, that I forgot to stop and take photos.  Duh!  And I specifically chose a light blue zipper so it would show up in the pics.  Double Duh!

finished fly extensions
fly complete
pinned zipper

I’m going to do a separate post on just the fly zipper. I owe you!

And here it is, a 2 page printable PDF  Fly Tutorial Jalie 2908

And here’s the blog post about it.

The waistband is sewn to the inside of the jeans first, then top-stitched into place.  Before I did the top-stitching, I slipped a square of medium weight fusible interfacing between the layers in the area of the buttonhole placement.  And fused it place with a hot steamy iron.

I sewed the bottom of the waistband to the right side with matching thread BEFORE I top-stitched.  Just in case.  And guess what?  I had to un-stitch a bit and re-do it.  The waistband is cut on the bias, and I had a ripple. 

The top end of the belt-loop gets tucked under by 3/8 inch.  I found it easier to mark the cutting line AND the fold line.

Then I sewed back and forth a few times following the same line as the top-stitching.

My first attempt at the buttonhole was pretty crooked.  And yes, I did make a sample on scrap denim first.  So was my 2nd and 3rd attempt.  This fabric took to picking out really well, thank goodness.  I decided to choose a different style of buttonhole and it worked perfectly.

All the sewing is complete. 

All that remains is to attach the “jeans button”, and take some pics. 

 

I started and ended my top-stitching there, so it doesn’t show when I wear them.

Jalie 2908 front
Jalie 2908 side front
Jalie 2908 leg
Jalie 2908 front pocket
Jalie 2908 back
Jalie 2908 complete

 In spite of the fact that my waist measures 2 inches larger than the pattern, (I made size “Y”), the fact that the waistband is cut on the bias makes it work for me.

Front Pockets on Jalie 2908, Stretch Jeans

My disclaimer; I received this pattern and a piece of beautiful stretch denim from Distinctive Sewing Supplies in exchange for blogging about my experience.  Please know that the opinions expressed will be my own.

This is the view I’m making, but it will fit even a bit higher at my waist. 

Part 1, Getting Started (My alterations and top-stitching the back pockets) click here

Part 2, The Backside, click here

BTW, do you know you can go to the Jalie website and download the instructions?  They’re available in French and English as a PDF and you can print the pages you need.

 The next sewing step is completing the lined front pockets.  I chose a turquoise coloured batik for the lining. 

There are 3 pattern pieces to these pockets.

Shown are the pieces for the regular rise jeans, the ones for the low rise are similar, but shorter.  The Front Pocket Yoke is cut from your jean fabric, the other two from lining.

The instructions were very clear, and the pockets went together perfectly.

hint:  if you’re using batik for your lining, mark the wrong sides of each piece.

The front pockets are compete with 2 rows of top-stitching.

My next installment will be the fly-zipper!

Are you following this?  Does it make sense so far?  Any questions?

 

Jalie Stretch Jeans 2908, let’s start

Let the process begin!

My disclaimer; I received this pattern and a piece of beautiful stretch denim from Distinctive Sewing Supplies in exchange for blogging about my experience.  Please know that the opinions expressed will be my own.

I pre-treated the denim as suggested, by soaking in a Eucalan solution for 20 minutes, spinning the water out, then tumbling in a warm, not hot, drier for about 20 minutes.  The water that drained off had no denim colour in it, and there was minimal shrinkage.

I selected my pattern size by my hip measurement, as suggested on the envelope. 

This pattern comes in 27 sizes!  I’m an “X”, and like my jeans at my waist, so traced off for View B.

My waist is larger than “X”, but because the waistband is cut on the bias (stretchy) and I’m determined (and working actively at it) to lose weight, I made no adjustments for my girth. 

I DID add 1/2″ in the rise on both front and back, which will add a total of 1 inch to the crotch measurement.

 

I also had to add 1/2 inch to the fly shield and the piece for the fusible interfacing for the fly.

 Cutting out is always an adventure around here!

My choice for the pocket lining reflects my rebellious streak.

It took me ages to decide on a thread colour for my top-stitching.  I really like Sulky 12 weight cotton for this, and have quite a few shades in my collection.  Because these jeans will be part of a “capsule”, I chose a shade of blue that complimented the other fabrics in the group. I sew this thick thread with a Schmetz size 14/90 Topstitch needle.  It’s not too thick, but has a larger eye and deeper groove to accommodate the thread thickness.

Sulky 12 Weight
Schmetz 90 14 topstitch
scarf collar top

Mettler poly in the bobbin, time to sew.  I wanted to stitch something on the pockets to make them “mine” so went to my closet for inspiration.  Now it’s one thing to stitch a free-hand swirl on one pocket, it’s quite different to mirror image the stitching for the other pocket.

I borrowed a trick that quilters use; sewing through paper! So I traced off 2 copies of the pocket onto a scrap of the pattern paper I use to trace off my patterns, drew a “swirl” on one, traced it onto the other piece of paper, then flipped it over and retraced the swirl on the other side.

Then I pinned the paper to each pocket, then with the Sulky 12 weight in the top-stitch needle and my stitch length set at 3.5, stitched along each line, then tore the paper off before stitching an echo line about 1/8 inch on either side of the original. 

Sewing slowly and using my needle-down function as part of the Husqvarna/Viking Sensor System made the stitching fairly easy.

Check back for the next installment.  Please click here

Test Sewing Stretch Denim

I recently received a package in the mail from Distinctive Sewing Supplies.  Inside was a beautiful piece of an ITY knit, a bottle of Eucalan, AND 2 meters of a lightweight stretch denim in my favourite colour! 

These products were given to me by Catherine, the owner of Distinctive Sewing Supplies in exchange for my using, testing, sewing and providing an honest review on my blog.

I LOVE that each piece of fabric comes labeled and wrapped in a clear plastic bag.

After soaking the denim in warm water with the Eucalan then letting it tumble in a cool drier for about 15 minutes, it came out looking like this. 

I measured it afterward and shrinkage was 4%.

It is so soft and silky that I had to shut the cat out of my sewing room to take a cat-less picture. 

The original plan was that I was going to make a pair of jeans with it, but Catherine and I decided that it was a bit too light in weight.  So I made another pair of Jalie Eleonore Pull On Jeans with it.

click here to read another post about these jeans

or another here

and here

  Notice that the top-stitching co-ordinates with the pocket lining fabric.  Get my instructions on drafting a functional pocket for the adult sizes by clicking on the link.

adding-pocket-to-jalie

I did my top-stitching with this twin needle, Schmetz 6.0/100.  I’m going to try a size 4.0/100 on this lighter weight denim next time.

Most of the construction was done using my serger, then top-stitched with the twin needle afterward. 

Watch that you don’t skimp on the seam allowance and that you edge finish this denim , as it does have a tendency to fray. 

It also has just barely enough stretch for this pattern, and I really noticed those extra holiday pounds.  If you’re going to use this fabric for the Jalie Eleonore pattern, you might want to make one size larger than normal.

front
back pocket
front
back waist

Well, I’m off for a walk outside, ta ta. 

 

 

Another Pair of Jalie 3461 Pull on Jeans

front

This is pair #6. 

The last time I used a sewing pattern this many times was in 1981.  I was pregnant with my second child, a stay at home mom who needed maternity clothes,  and fabric was cheap.

I’m a blue jeans kinda gal, and I wear this pair a LOT.  I love the way they fit, and they’re really comfy.

Jalie Pull on Jeans in Denim

Another pair in denim would be awesome and give me a great excuse to sew.  (I always WANT to sew, but don’t always have a project.)

Instead of top-stitching this pair with a twin needle, I chose to use a single line of a reinforced stitch and a 30 weight cotton Blendable thread.

Sulky 30 wt

stitch A12

I chose heavy woven on the Sewing Advisor and then lengthened the stitch to 4.5 

This stitch is straight and consists of 2 stitches forward, then one stitch back.  This results in each stitch being sewn 3 times, which really makes the thread “pop”.  I used the colour shown above, and although the pictures don’t do it justice, the result is eye catching.  The trickiest part was keeping the stitches even when going across a thick seam intersection.  I found the “needle-down” function very useful and I sewed really slowly at the tricky spots.

stitches

close up front
IMG_3643

 

3461 Éléonore Pull-On Jeans

 

3461_3

It was this picture that caught my attention first.  Wow, I thought, these are awesome jeans!  (I like that fabric, too!)  THEN I read the description; Pull-on jeans!  The best of both worlds! 

I read the reviews: (click here) then bought the pattern.    I already had a piece of stretch twill, pre-washed and ready to sew.  Black.  Cat hair magnet.  Anyway…..

Before I traced off my size, (I never cut a master pattern), I checked the “rise”.  It’s a “below the waist fit”.  Not for me.  Three children, a few years, an appreciation of wine, you get the drift.

I added 2 inches to the rise, then made these jeans.  The instructions are fantastic.  Hint:  I print the instructions from the Jalie website so I can keep it handy beside my machine.  One other change I made was to shorten the elastic by 2 inches for both the front and back.  I wanted to avoid “plumbers’ crack”.

I completed the jeans, tried them on, and OMG, I LOVE them.  The fit is perfect.  (Almost) 

On the next pair I changed the rise adjustment from 2 inches to 1 1/2 inches.   And changed the front false pocket to a real one.  And not use black fabric.  It doesn’t photograph well.  So this is my next pair, in a stretch denim.

IMG_3828

The photo doesn’t do the fabric justice.   It’s a rich denim blue with 20% stretch, perfect for this pattern.

IMG_3841I added real pockets to the fronts.  The original pattern has an insert to give the illusion of a pocket which gave me a starting point.  To keep bulk to a minimum, I used a cotton print for the lining.  If you’d like a detailed description of how I drew and sewed the pockets, please email me at:   yvettechilcott(at)yahoo(dot)ca  with your request and I’ll write it up.

pieces for pocketAll my top stitching was done using Sulky 12 weight cotton and a Schmetz twin needle size 100/6mm. 

Schmetz 6.0 100back pocketspocket topstitched

I recently became a Husqvarna Viking Epic owner, and have been sewing up a storm.  These jeans gave me a reason to finally open the embroidery unit.  This raw edge applique design is one of the many that are included in the machine.  I embroidered 3 flowers in total, 2 are design size and 1 enlarged.  I used the reverse side of the denim for the applique and a Sulky variegated rayon embroidery thread.

Machine Embroidery on jeans leg

MacPhee Classic Pants in Stretch Denim

Ok. 

Have you ever made a great fitting pair of pants in one fabric, then used the same pattern with a different fabric and the pants were awful?

I taught a class focused on MacPhee Classic Pant pattern #395. 

395On the back of the pattern is the recommended fabric;  Slinky or any medium weight knit.

That’s great! 

I love Slinky!  Linda drafted this pattern with a soft, stretchy knit in mind, so the wearing ease reflects that fabric weight.

We all know that a pair of knit pants that fit the body too closely are leggings, not pants.

But think of how a pair of jeans made of stretch denim  fit.  Close to the body, right?  It works because the fabric is firm and hugs the body without showing too much detail.

IMG_2905Here is a pair that I made with a stretch denim.  I taught a class on how to figure out what size to make to adjust to the firmer fabric.

Next week we’ll sew them, and then I’ll post pictures.