Tag Archives: stretch jeans

Jalie Stretch Jeans 2908, The Fly Zipper

Does the mere thought of sewing a fly zipper give you a hot flash?

There are many steps, but each single step was easy.  If you’ve not done this before, don’t be afraid.  The instructions included with this pattern were pretty good. 

My disclaimer; I received this pattern and the piece of beautiful stretch denim from Distinctive Sewing Supplies in exchange for blogging about my experience.  Please know that the opinions expressed will be my own.

I had one moment when what I thought I was reading, wasn’t.  Step 24(a) reads:  On right side of front, top-stitch 3 mm (1/8’’) right of center front (fig. 24a – view from right side of front.

As you see it, not as you wear it.

After that it was clear sailing.  So clear, that I forgot to stop and take photos.  Duh!  And I specifically chose a light blue zipper so it would show up in the pics.  Double Duh!

finished fly extensions
fly complete
pinned zipper

I’m going to do a separate post on just the fly zipper. I owe you!

And here it is, a 2 page printable PDF  Fly Tutorial Jalie 2908

And here’s the blog post about it.

The waistband is sewn to the inside of the jeans first, then top-stitched into place.  Before I did the top-stitching, I slipped a square of medium weight fusible interfacing between the layers in the area of the buttonhole placement.  And fused it place with a hot steamy iron.

I sewed the bottom of the waistband to the right side with matching thread BEFORE I top-stitched.  Just in case.  And guess what?  I had to un-stitch a bit and re-do it.  The waistband is cut on the bias, and I had a ripple. 

The top end of the belt-loop gets tucked under by 3/8 inch.  I found it easier to mark the cutting line AND the fold line.

Then I sewed back and forth a few times following the same line as the top-stitching.

My first attempt at the buttonhole was pretty crooked.  And yes, I did make a sample on scrap denim first.  So was my 2nd and 3rd attempt.  This fabric took to picking out really well, thank goodness.  I decided to choose a different style of buttonhole and it worked perfectly.

All the sewing is complete. 

All that remains is to attach the “jeans button”, and take some pics. 

 

I started and ended my top-stitching there, so it doesn’t show when I wear them.

Jalie 2908 front
Jalie 2908 side front
Jalie 2908 leg
Jalie 2908 front pocket
Jalie 2908 back
Jalie 2908 complete

 In spite of the fact that my waist measures 2 inches larger than the pattern, (I made size “Y”), the fact that the waistband is cut on the bias makes it work for me.

Jalie Stretch Jeans 2908, let’s start

Let the process begin!

My disclaimer; I received this pattern and a piece of beautiful stretch denim from Distinctive Sewing Supplies in exchange for blogging about my experience.  Please know that the opinions expressed will be my own.

I pre-treated the denim as suggested, by soaking in a Eucalan solution for 20 minutes, spinning the water out, then tumbling in a warm, not hot, drier for about 20 minutes.  The water that drained off had no denim colour in it, and there was minimal shrinkage.

I selected my pattern size by my hip measurement, as suggested on the envelope. 

This pattern comes in 27 sizes!  I’m an “X”, and like my jeans at my waist, so traced off for View B.

My waist is larger than “X”, but because the waistband is cut on the bias (stretchy) and I’m determined (and working actively at it) to lose weight, I made no adjustments for my girth. 

I DID add 1/2″ in the rise on both front and back, which will add a total of 1 inch to the crotch measurement.

 

I also had to add 1/2 inch to the fly shield and the piece for the fusible interfacing for the fly.

 Cutting out is always an adventure around here!

My choice for the pocket lining reflects my rebellious streak.

It took me ages to decide on a thread colour for my top-stitching.  I really like Sulky 12 weight cotton for this, and have quite a few shades in my collection.  Because these jeans will be part of a “capsule”, I chose a shade of blue that complimented the other fabrics in the group. I sew this thick thread with a Schmetz size 14/90 Topstitch needle.  It’s not too thick, but has a larger eye and deeper groove to accommodate the thread thickness.

Sulky 12 Weight
Schmetz 90 14 topstitch
scarf collar top

Mettler poly in the bobbin, time to sew.  I wanted to stitch something on the pockets to make them “mine” so went to my closet for inspiration.  Now it’s one thing to stitch a free-hand swirl on one pocket, it’s quite different to mirror image the stitching for the other pocket.

I borrowed a trick that quilters use; sewing through paper! So I traced off 2 copies of the pocket onto a scrap of the pattern paper I use to trace off my patterns, drew a “swirl” on one, traced it onto the other piece of paper, then flipped it over and retraced the swirl on the other side.

Then I pinned the paper to each pocket, then with the Sulky 12 weight in the top-stitch needle and my stitch length set at 3.5, stitched along each line, then tore the paper off before stitching an echo line about 1/8 inch on either side of the original. 

Sewing slowly and using my needle-down function as part of the Husqvarna/Viking Sensor System made the stitching fairly easy.

Check back for the next installment.  Please click here