I need pockets in my pants and in my jackets. If the pattern doesn’t include pockets, I add them.
This version of the San Diego Jacket is made of a soft draping stretch woven jacquard. This is the first time I’ve sewn a garment from this fabric, and it’s although is a woven fabric, it behaves like a soft knit. I felt that a patch pocket would add too much weight to the front and drag it down. I chose to add inseam side pockets.
My disclosure: The beautiful stretch woven jacquard was provided to me at no charge by Distinctive Sewing Supplies in exchange for writing a review. This is an interesting fabric in that it has no floats, is totally reversible and the stretch is on the lengthwise grain.
Here’s how I drafted the pattern;
Cut a piece of pattern paper 8 inches by 12 inches and draw a line one inch in from the right edge, then mark dots on that line, 2 inches and then 8 inches from the top.
Cut 4 pockets from your main fabric. If your main fabric is thick or heavy, you can cut 2 of a lighter-weight stable woven fabric for the front layer and 2 of your garment fabric for the back layer.
You also need 2 strips of medium weight fusible interfacing 2 inches by 8 inches. Mark dots along the center, one inch from each end.
Decide where on the side-seam you want your pockets. I positioned mine so the bottom would get caught up in the hem.
Mark the dot positions on the wrong side at the side-seam, then fuse on the interfacing, matching the dots. Pin the pocket lining to the fronts, matching the dots. Use a short stitch and sew from the edge of the side, pivot at the dot, along the straight edge, pivot, then sew to the edge.
Trim away around the seam, leaving 3/8” seam allowance. Clip the corners just to the sewing line then turn the lining to the inside and press well. Gently roll the seam line to the inside as you press.
With the inside of the front facing up, pin the remaining pocket piece only to the lining with the right sides together. Sew along the top, inside and bottom, leaving the outer edge open. I used my serger.
Press to smooth, then baste the entire pocket bag into position onto the front, making sure that everything is even at the side-seams.
Continue with the jacket construction. Sewing the side-seam will complete the pocket.
I finished my jacket with cover-stitch, including the hem, which anchored the pocket bottom. I also used cover-stitch around the pocket from the right side which anchored it all the way around.
You can see it slightly in this picture.
Below is a 1 page PDF to download so you can print these instructions.
As usual, please contact me if you have any questions or comments, I welcome your feedback.