Tag Archives: tutorial

Folkwear #108 Turkish Dancer Jacket

Do you see a jacket on the pattern cover?

I didn’t, at first.  In a previous post about this pattern, I wrote about my linen sundress.

I wore this dress when I was at Quilt Canada helping my friend Catherine, owner of Distinctive Sewing Supplies.  It was a popular pattern, and so was the fabric.  Both sold well.  But, I was cold.  I needed sleeves, there was a jacket pattern included with Turkish Dancer, AND Distinctive Sewing Supplies had the perfect fabric.

Sew, a jacket was born!  My disclaimer; the fabric was supplied to me at no charge in exchange for my making and writing about the jacket.  Again, it’s my pleasure. 

Every single piece of fabric I have from Distinctive Sewing Supplies has been great to sew.  I’ve had no surprises, each piece has been exactly as it was described on the website. 

I traced off a size medium, lengthening the body and the sleeves by 2 inches. 

Only 3 pieces, it didn’t take long to cut out. 

The edges are designed to be finished with bias binding turned to the inside, but I wanted to take it up a notch.  I like the idea of bias binding, but chose to turn it to the out-side and leave the edge raw, unfinished, and brushed for texture.  The inside is smooth and perfectly finished.

frayed bias binding
bias trim

I cut enough 1.25 inch wide strips to go around the entire jacket as well as the bottoms of both sleeves then joined them to make one long strip.  The seam allowance was trimmed to 1/4inch and pressed open.

The only change I made to the pattern, other than lengthening it, was to round off the bottom front a bit by tracing a container and trimming off the excess.

Construction of the jacket was simple, and I used my serger to finish the edges.  I also used my serger with the differential set to the largest setting to gather the sleeve caps between the notches. 

After setting in the sleeves and sewing the side seams it was time to apply the prepared bias trim.  I started at the bottom dean a side-seam and sewed the right side of the trim (using 1/4 inch seam allowance) to the wrong side of the jacket.  I left a bit un-sewn at the beginning so I could join the strip at the end.  After joining the beginning and ending on the bias and pressing the seam allowance open, I completed attaching it and trimmed off the points.

To finish it, fold the trim to the right side, wrapping the seam allowance.  Sew from the wrong side, “in the ditch”.

I used a toothbrush to fluff the raw edge.

 

 

inside
back
jacket
right side

What do you think?  I love this little jacket and will make more.

I’d love to read some comments……..

Adding In-Set Side Pockets to the Sewing Workshop Pattern San Diego Coat

I need pockets in my pants and in my jackets.  If the pattern doesn’t include pockets, I add them.

This version of the San Diego Jacket is made of a soft draping stretch woven jacquard.  This is the first time I’ve sewn a garment from this fabric, and it’s although is a woven fabric, it behaves like a soft knit.   I felt that a patch pocket would add too much weight to the front and drag it down.  I chose to add inseam side pockets.

My disclosure:  The beautiful stretch woven jacquard was provided to me at no charge by Distinctive Sewing Supplies in exchange for writing a review.  This is an interesting fabric in that it has no floats, is totally reversible and the stretch is on the lengthwise grain.  

Here’s how I drafted the pattern;

Cut a piece of pattern paper 8 inches by 12 inches and draw a  line one inch in from the right edge, then mark dots on that line, 2 inches and then 8 inches from the top.

Cut 4 pockets from your main fabric.  If your main fabric is thick or heavy, you can cut 2 of a lighter-weight stable woven fabric for the front layer and 2 of your garment fabric for the back layer. 

You also need 2 strips of medium weight fusible interfacing 2 inches by 8 inches.  Mark dots along the center, one inch from each end.

Decide where on the side-seam you want your pockets.  I positioned mine so the bottom would get caught up in the hem.

Mark the dot positions on the wrong side at the side-seam, then fuse on the interfacing, matching the dots. Pin the pocket lining to the fronts, matching the dots.  Use a short stitch and sew from the edge of the side, pivot at the dot, along the straight edge, pivot, then sew to the edge.

Trim away around the seam, leaving 3/8” seam allowance.  Clip the corners just to the sewing line then turn the lining to the inside and press well.  Gently roll the seam line to the inside as you press.

With the inside of the front facing up, pin the remaining pocket piece only to the lining with the right sides together.  Sew along the top, inside and bottom, leaving the outer edge open.  I used my serger. 

Press to smooth, then baste the entire pocket bag into position onto the front, making sure that everything is even at the side-seams. 

Continue with the jacket construction.  Sewing the side-seam will complete the pocket. 

I finished my jacket with cover-stitch, including the hem, which anchored the pocket bottom.  I also  used cover-stitch around the pocket from the right side which anchored it all the way around. 

You can see it slightly in this picture.

Below is a 1 page PDF to download so you can print these instructions.

As usual, please contact me if you have any questions or comments, I welcome your feedback.

set in side seam pocket

Turkish Dancer Dress Folkwear 108

 

My dress is finished!

This beautiful linen caught my eye as soon as it was unpacked when we set up the Distinctive Sewing Supply booth at last month’s Creativfestival. The pattern is  Folkwear design called a Turkish Dancer Dress, #108, but you’d never guess from looking at the cover of the pattern.

The “V” of the neck looks very low, (it isn’t).

My linen dress is fully underlined with a cotton voile, and I’ll wear it as soon as it gets warm enough.

I omitted the sleeves and the side slits, shortened the length by 12 inches, and overlapped the front by 1 inch.

I made another version of the same dress a couple of years ago,  in a linen/cotton blend, but the fabric was heavier so it didn’t need the underlining.  I love the slightly extended shoulder and the slight upward curve of the shoulder at the neck.  The neckline and armholes are finished with self-made bias binding.

My disclosure:  The beautiful linen and the cotton voile for the interlining was provided to me at no charge by Distinctive Sewing Supplies in exchange for writing a review of the fabric and a tutorial for the pattern changes.   And just sew you know, I would have bought the fabrics anyway.  I LOVE them! 

(I already had the pattern)  Pre-order yours from Distinctive Sewing Supplies by clicking here.

They arrive with labels:

Both fabrics, the linen and the cotton voile were soaked in Eucalan for 20 minutes, then rinsed and tumble dried at low heat for about 20 minutes.  Both fabrics came out of the drier looking a bit “rumpled”, but not enough that I felt I had to iron them.  Smoothing them with my hands on the cutting table was enough.

My next post will detail the simple adjustments to the pattern.

Fly Tutorial with Photos for Jalie Stretch Jeans 2908

Remember these jeans?

These are  my jeans using Jalie Stretch Jeans 2908.  (If you want to read the post, please click here)

In that post I stated that I would write a tutorial on the fly front zipper.  Since then I’ve sewn many more garments, but I hadn’t forgotten.  Just lately I helped my friend Suzanne work through the fly front, step by step, and realized that the tutorial might have helped her.

I cut out a pair of fronts in the smallest size, and the fly shield, which I made longer by about 3/4 inch.  On my jeans they seemed to have gotten smaller as I sewed, so from now on I’ll add a bit. 

I used a cream coloured twill, an orange zipper and dark green thread.  It’s not pretty, but it worked.  I took pictures of each step and put a tutorial together as a 2 page PDF download.Please click here for the tutorial.  Fly Tutorial Jalie 2908

Have you sewn a fly front?  Did you have any problems with it?

And please, if you have any questions about the tutorial, please let me know.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Front Pockets on Jalie 2908, Stretch Jeans

My disclaimer; I received this pattern and a piece of beautiful stretch denim from Distinctive Sewing Supplies in exchange for blogging about my experience.  Please know that the opinions expressed will be my own.

This is the view I’m making, but it will fit even a bit higher at my waist. 

Part 1, Getting Started (My alterations and top-stitching the back pockets) click here

Part 2, The Backside, click here

BTW, do you know you can go to the Jalie website and download the instructions?  They’re available in French and English as a PDF and you can print the pages you need.

 The next sewing step is completing the lined front pockets.  I chose a turquoise coloured batik for the lining. 

There are 3 pattern pieces to these pockets.

Shown are the pieces for the regular rise jeans, the ones for the low rise are similar, but shorter.  The Front Pocket Yoke is cut from your jean fabric, the other two from lining.

The instructions were very clear, and the pockets went together perfectly.

hint:  if you’re using batik for your lining, mark the wrong sides of each piece.

The front pockets are compete with 2 rows of top-stitching.

My next installment will be the fly-zipper!

Are you following this?  Does it make sense so far?  Any questions?

 

Jalie Stretch Jeans 2908, let’s start

Let the process begin!

My disclaimer; I received this pattern and a piece of beautiful stretch denim from Distinctive Sewing Supplies in exchange for blogging about my experience.  Please know that the opinions expressed will be my own.

I pre-treated the denim as suggested, by soaking in a Eucalan solution for 20 minutes, spinning the water out, then tumbling in a warm, not hot, drier for about 20 minutes.  The water that drained off had no denim colour in it, and there was minimal shrinkage.

I selected my pattern size by my hip measurement, as suggested on the envelope. 

This pattern comes in 27 sizes!  I’m an “X”, and like my jeans at my waist, so traced off for View B.

My waist is larger than “X”, but because the waistband is cut on the bias (stretchy) and I’m determined (and working actively at it) to lose weight, I made no adjustments for my girth. 

I DID add 1/2″ in the rise on both front and back, which will add a total of 1 inch to the crotch measurement.

 

I also had to add 1/2 inch to the fly shield and the piece for the fusible interfacing for the fly.

 Cutting out is always an adventure around here!

My choice for the pocket lining reflects my rebellious streak.

It took me ages to decide on a thread colour for my top-stitching.  I really like Sulky 12 weight cotton for this, and have quite a few shades in my collection.  Because these jeans will be part of a “capsule”, I chose a shade of blue that complimented the other fabrics in the group. I sew this thick thread with a Schmetz size 14/90 Topstitch needle.  It’s not too thick, but has a larger eye and deeper groove to accommodate the thread thickness.

Sulky 12 Weight
Schmetz 90 14 topstitch
scarf collar top

Mettler poly in the bobbin, time to sew.  I wanted to stitch something on the pockets to make them “mine” so went to my closet for inspiration.  Now it’s one thing to stitch a free-hand swirl on one pocket, it’s quite different to mirror image the stitching for the other pocket.

I borrowed a trick that quilters use; sewing through paper! So I traced off 2 copies of the pocket onto a scrap of the pattern paper I use to trace off my patterns, drew a “swirl” on one, traced it onto the other piece of paper, then flipped it over and retraced the swirl on the other side.

Then I pinned the paper to each pocket, then with the Sulky 12 weight in the top-stitch needle and my stitch length set at 3.5, stitched along each line, then tore the paper off before stitching an echo line about 1/8 inch on either side of the original. 

Sewing slowly and using my needle-down function as part of the Husqvarna/Viking Sensor System made the stitching fairly easy.

Check back for the next installment.  Please click here

Jalie # 2921 Scarf Collar Top, Sewing it up

It’s time to sew!

This is part two of a three part post about my experience sewing and fitting the Jalie #2921 Scarf collar top. 

Part One is HERE.

ITY can be a bit of a slippery beast to tame, (thanks for that line  Lorna), so I elected to use my sewing machine for construction instead of the serger.  I used a “lightening stitch” (lengthened), 1/4 inch seam allowance and a Stretch 75/11 needle for all the seams.

 I started sewing using my dual feed foot, but soon changed it for my flat bottomed “A” foot.  The constant pressure of the flat foot held the fabric more securely than the dual feed foot.

 The included instructions were very clear and easy to follow.  The diagrams were also very helpful.  The instructions are also available as a stand-alone PDF on the Jalie website, so you can print them and keep them handy.

I followed the instructions provided for the most part, but did make a couple of very minor changes. 

  • Attaching the collar using the burrito method is brilliant!  It’s attached in two stages, first the right side of the scarf is sewn to the wrong side of the garment neckline.  Second, the entire body is rolled up and the other side of the scarf is wrapped around it then sewn from one point, up the length, then along the original seam line and back down the other side.  I found that if I sewed the second step with the first line of stitching up and visible, that I was able to sew directly on top of the original sewing line, so I didn’t have to worry about it showing through to the right side. 

  • I also elected to leave the space for turning along one side instead of the bottom.  For me it made the hand-sewing the opening closed easier.

I did experience some issues with my sewing machine trying to eat my fabric at the beginning and ending of the scarf, but quickly solved it by slipping a scrap of pattern paper underneath the fabric and sewing through it all.  The paper tore away easily afterward.

The rest of the construction went smoothly. 

There is a small opening left unsewn just below the neckline in the center front seam, and that’s where the scarf comes through to the front.  I fused short strips of 1/4 inch wide Steam a Seam to the wrong side of the seam allowances after sewing, peeled off the paper, then fused the seam allowance open to stabilize it.

The hole is hard to see, but it’s between the arrows.

I used this twin needle for all the hems, the fusible knit interfacing made it smooth and easy.

Photo time!  I love this top!  The fabric is sew comfortable to wear, the colour is perfect for me, and the style is a bit dressy, but not too much.  Thank you sew much Catherine and Distinctive Sewing Supplies!

But……

It fits tighter that I’m used to, and with my already long neck, and no cleavage to show off, I feel a bit exposed. 

front left
front right 3
front

Sew……….

I’m going to sew it again, larger, and I’m going to raise the neckline by two inches.

That will be the next post.  Stay tuned…….for Chapter Three

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Microwave Cozy for your Dinner Plate

No more burnt fingers!

Don’t you just dread taking a plate of reheated food from the microwave?  Oven mitts can be so bulky and awkward.

Here’s my solution; a plate cozy.  Click to open a PDF, then save it if you’d like.

plate cozy

I also have an instructable for a bowl cozy, click to open it.soup bowl cozy

Soup bowl cozy

Adding Pockets to Wrap Pants by MacPhee Workshop

My hubby and I are going on vacation this weekend, to a warm place with sand, sun and drinks with little umbrellas in them.

Awesome, I know.  I’m excited and going through my clothes deciding what to pack.  And what to sew.  I love to make at least one new garment for vacation, and decided to change up a pair of wrap pants that I made last year.

I made #407 Wrap Pants by MacPhee workshop last summer out of a gorgeous white crinkle cotton, and although they were “ok”, I wasn’t excited by them.  The fabric was a bit too heavy and they didn’t drape well.  A make-over was in order.  I cut off the waist ties, then re-cut the legs for the other option in Linda’s pattern, the pans with the seam down the front. 

The cut off pieces were more than large enough for pockets.  (You need pockets when you’re on vacation.)

IMG_2540Here’s the shape I drew, 3 inches across the top, 10 inches down the right side, 8″ across the bottom and 5″ up the left.  A curve large enough for my hand finished it.

I serge finished all edges except for the 3″ IMG_2541and 10″, they’ll go into seams.  Then turn under the curved serged edge, top-stitch and press.  Turn under the bottom and 5″ side by about 3/8″ and press.

Pin the wrong side of each pocket to the right side of the back, lining the 3″ side with the top of the pants and the unfinished edge even with the long seam.

IMG_2543Top-stitch the 5″ side and along the bottom.

With right sides together, join the front seams, catching the unfinished edges of the pockets in the seam.

IMG_2545

I had already cut the front down by about an inch to make it a more flattering fit, then used a piece of elastic for the waist.  I joined the short ends with the sewing machine, then quarter pinned it and the waist area.  I used my serger to join the elastic to the pants, making sure my blade didn’t nick the elastic.

Done, because they were already hemmed in the first incarnation.

They’re loose with wide legs, perfect for a warm climate.  I’ve made many of these over the years, both full length and capri length, and love them all.

finishedHave you made these?   What do you think of this unusual pattern?

IMG_2544