Tag Archives: twin needle

Jalie Stretch Jeans 2908, The Fly Zipper

Does the mere thought of sewing a fly zipper give you a hot flash?

There are many steps, but each single step was easy.  If you’ve not done this before, don’t be afraid.  The instructions included with this pattern were pretty good. 

My disclaimer; I received this pattern and the piece of beautiful stretch denim from Distinctive Sewing Supplies in exchange for blogging about my experience.  Please know that the opinions expressed will be my own.

I had one moment when what I thought I was reading, wasn’t.  Step 24(a) reads:  On right side of front, top-stitch 3 mm (1/8’’) right of center front (fig. 24a – view from right side of front.

As you see it, not as you wear it.

After that it was clear sailing.  So clear, that I forgot to stop and take photos.  Duh!  And I specifically chose a light blue zipper so it would show up in the pics.  Double Duh!

finished fly extensions
fly complete
pinned zipper

I’m going to do a separate post on just the fly zipper. I owe you!

And here it is, a 2 page printable PDF  Fly Tutorial Jalie 2908

And here’s the blog post about it.

The waistband is sewn to the inside of the jeans first, then top-stitched into place.  Before I did the top-stitching, I slipped a square of medium weight fusible interfacing between the layers in the area of the buttonhole placement.  And fused it place with a hot steamy iron.

I sewed the bottom of the waistband to the right side with matching thread BEFORE I top-stitched.  Just in case.  And guess what?  I had to un-stitch a bit and re-do it.  The waistband is cut on the bias, and I had a ripple. 

The top end of the belt-loop gets tucked under by 3/8 inch.  I found it easier to mark the cutting line AND the fold line.

Then I sewed back and forth a few times following the same line as the top-stitching.

My first attempt at the buttonhole was pretty crooked.  And yes, I did make a sample on scrap denim first.  So was my 2nd and 3rd attempt.  This fabric took to picking out really well, thank goodness.  I decided to choose a different style of buttonhole and it worked perfectly.

All the sewing is complete. 

All that remains is to attach the “jeans button”, and take some pics. 

 

I started and ended my top-stitching there, so it doesn’t show when I wear them.

Jalie 2908 front
Jalie 2908 side front
Jalie 2908 leg
Jalie 2908 front pocket
Jalie 2908 back
Jalie 2908 complete

 In spite of the fact that my waist measures 2 inches larger than the pattern, (I made size “Y”), the fact that the waistband is cut on the bias makes it work for me.

3461 Éléonore Pull-On Jeans

 

3461_3

It was this picture that caught my attention first.  Wow, I thought, these are awesome jeans!  (I like that fabric, too!)  THEN I read the description; Pull-on jeans!  The best of both worlds! 

I read the reviews: (click here) then bought the pattern.    I already had a piece of stretch twill, pre-washed and ready to sew.  Black.  Cat hair magnet.  Anyway…..

Before I traced off my size, (I never cut a master pattern), I checked the “rise”.  It’s a “below the waist fit”.  Not for me.  Three children, a few years, an appreciation of wine, you get the drift.

I added 2 inches to the rise, then made these jeans.  The instructions are fantastic.  Hint:  I print the instructions from the Jalie website so I can keep it handy beside my machine.  One other change I made was to shorten the elastic by 2 inches for both the front and back.  I wanted to avoid “plumbers’ crack”.

I completed the jeans, tried them on, and OMG, I LOVE them.  The fit is perfect.  (Almost) 

On the next pair I changed the rise adjustment from 2 inches to 1 1/2 inches.   And changed the front false pocket to a real one.  And not use black fabric.  It doesn’t photograph well.  So this is my next pair, in a stretch denim.

IMG_3828

The photo doesn’t do the fabric justice.   It’s a rich denim blue with 20% stretch, perfect for this pattern.

IMG_3841I added real pockets to the fronts.  The original pattern has an insert to give the illusion of a pocket which gave me a starting point.  To keep bulk to a minimum, I used a cotton print for the lining.  If you’d like a detailed description of how I drew and sewed the pockets, please email me at:   yvettechilcott(at)yahoo(dot)ca  with your request and I’ll write it up.

pieces for pocketAll my top stitching was done using Sulky 12 weight cotton and a Schmetz twin needle size 100/6mm. 

Schmetz 6.0 100back pocketspocket topstitched

I recently became a Husqvarna Viking Epic owner, and have been sewing up a storm.  These jeans gave me a reason to finally open the embroidery unit.  This raw edge applique design is one of the many that are included in the machine.  I embroidered 3 flowers in total, 2 are design size and 1 enlarged.  I used the reverse side of the denim for the applique and a Sulky variegated rayon embroidery thread.

Machine Embroidery on jeans leg

Attaching a Cowl Collar

 

The 2 Hour Tunic pattern has a pattern piece for a detachable cowl collar, and Mary asked me if I’d made it.  My response was “no, I’m of that age where I get really warm.  Sometimes. ” 

I suggested she go ahead, and she did.  But would have preferred an attached cowl so it would stay in place.

Sew I couldn’t stop thinking about it.  Couldn’t be that hard, right?  I had a MacPhee Model Tee already cut out, and a chunk of fabric large enough for a cowl, so the adventure began.  The process would be the same to add the cowl to the 2 Hour Tunic.

323 model TeeHere’s a pic of the pattern, my cut out tee has 3/4 sleeves, and a re-drawn neckline halfway between the one at the top left and the one at the bottom right.

The pic below is of my modified pattern with the cut out front.  Notice it’s about halfway between the two.   I measured the neckline and it’s 60 cm.

my necklineLinda gives us a “Liberation License” on every pattern.  Linda Liberation LicenseThe pattern piece for the cowl is with the 2-Hour Tunic. 

pattern I traced it onto pattern paper, opened it out and measured it along the curved edge where it would be sewn to the neck. 

whole pattern

 

 

 

Too big.  That’s ok, easy to fix.  See the new cutting line?  I just cut off the extra.

cowl patternOpened out the paper, pinned the straight edge of the pattern to the fold and cut it out.  Then opened it out, and with right sides together I sewed (serged) the shorter slightly curved seam to make a tube.  The seam will be the back.

Refold the piece with wrong sides together, the raw curved edges will be together. 

zig zag collar edgeI used a narrow zig zag stitch to baste the raw edges together, then I used pins to mark the center front and the halfway points at the sides.  neck edge

I also “quarter pinned” the neckline of the top.   Then it was easy to match the seam at the center back of the cowl to the pin at center back.  Same for the center front and the halfway points at the sides.  I joined the pieces with my serger, then used a twin needle to top stitch the seam allowance away from the collar.

close up cowlneckline topstitching detailme in cowl frontcowl on model teeI’m pleased at how this turned out, but am working out a looser cowl.  It’s still too hot.  Sometimes.  I’ll keep you posted.