I’ve been teaching many “hands-on” classes over the years, with many of them focusing on pullover tops by MacPhee Workshop patterns. My students noticed that my samples have various neckline finishes.
I also taught a demo-style class on the last Saturday of each month at a store I used to own, and taught those finishes there. Now it’s your turn! 🙂
Let’s assume you have your top cut out.
This finish is for round or scoop necklines, NOT a V-neck.
First join the shoulders using 1/4” seam allowance.
I stabilize the shoulders by fusing a 1 inch wide piece of fusible tricot to the fronts. (not shown in my sample). I used the ’lightning stitch” on our Husqvarna/Viking computerized sewing machine. Don’t’ stretch it! An alternate stitch is a narrow and short zig-zag, (length and width at 1mm). Or serge the shoulders.
Press the seam allowance toward the back.
To determine the length of the neckband, measure the neckline at the seam line, and multiply that measurement by .8 (that’s point 8). Add 1/2 inch seam allowance. Join the short ends of the neckband together to form a loop, using the same stitch as the previous step. Press the seam to one side. Or serge it.
Quarter pin the neckband and the neckline;
Fold the neckband in half from the seam and pin at the fold. That’s half. Bring the fold with the pin to the seam and mark where it folds with a pin in each side. You should have 3 pins and the seam, equal distances apart.
To 1/4 pin the neckline, fold at center front and back by bringing the shoulder seams together. Stick a pin at each fold. Now open out the neckline and bring those pins together so they meet. The new folds are halfway between the center front and center back. Stick pins in to mark. Notice that the pins are not on the shoulder seams!
Pin the neckband to the neckline with right sides together, having the seam in the neckband at the center back. One raw edge of the neckband will be even with the raw edge of the neckband. Match the quarter pins at the center front and at the sides.
Sew with the neckband up, and the garment against the feed-teeth of the sewing machine. Use a generous 1/4” seam allowance to sew all the way around. You’ll need to stretch the neckband ever so slightly as you sew, but don’t stretch the garment. Just take it one inch at a time. No need to reinforce at the beginning, just overlap your stitching by 1/2 inch when you get back around. We’re using the same stitch as before. Or serge it.
Press the seam allowance up toward the neckband.
Fold the neckband around the seam allowance to the inside and pin.
The band is a bit wider than needed. Stitch from the right side, in the ditch using the same stitch as before, starting and ending at center back.
Trim off the extra seam allowance from the inside and give a final press.