Applique Stitch Embellishment

When Jalie introduces a new pattern collection, there’s at least one that inspires my creativity.  This year it’s Florence.  Meet my 4th Florence, with applique stitch embellishment.  My sewing machine (Husqvarna/viking Epic2)  has more than 840 built in stitches and I want to USE them.  The appliqued flowers on my blouse are 1 of them.  My stash revealed a piece of striped poly cotton in pink and white that  became my pallet.   A 12 weight cotton thread called out for a bold look, and using a top-stitch 90/14 needle made stitching with the thick thread effortless.  I fused strips of freezer paper to the wrong side for stability.  It was a pain to tear away, and I ended up soaking the bits remaining in warm water to soften them, then agitated them loose.  Now it’s hanging on the clothesline drying.

Have you ever checked out garments at online retailers like Wish for ideas?   And then they send links to your email or facebook account with more garment ideas? (I save them in a folder on my computer.)

The easy shape of the blouse in this picture appeals to me, and the shape of Florence, with the large pattern pieces makes it a great pattern to “hack”. 

The Changes I Made to Jalie’s Florence Pattern

• widened the neckline by 1 inch (2.5 cm) on front and back
• lowered the front neckline by 1 inch (2.5cm)
• omitted the collar, front pockets, and sleeve-band
• added 2 inches (5 cm) to the sleeve length
• cut the front on the fold using the Center-Front line on the pattern.
• cut the upper back on the cross-grain to utilize the stripe effect.
• cut enough 2 inch wide scraps on the bias to finish the neckline and both armband hems.

My Sewing Proceedure 

First, the Applique Stitch Embellishment

The stripes dictated where the applique stitch embellishment was going. As I  mentioned before, I fused strips of freezer paper to the wrong side of the areas where the applique was going. I staggered the number of flowers in each column to give visual interest.  Notice I centered the flowers on the white background with pink fabric and the ones on pink fabric with white centers.  After using a sewing needle to take the tail end threads to the wrong side, I dabbed them with fray check.  The ends were cut off when it dried.  Then I tore off as much of the freezer paper as I could.  After all the sewing was complete, I soaked my blouse in warm water to remove the remaining paper.

Construct the Basic Blouse

Make the back pleat then join the lower and upper back.  Join the front to the back at the shoulders.  Measure the neckline on the seamline (3/8″).  Prepare a piece of bias 2 inches wide (5 cm) and join the ends to that EXACT measurement less 1/4 inch. Fold and press with wrong sides together to form a circle 1 inch wide and the circumference of the neckline at the sewing line, less 1/4 inch.  Pin the bias band to the WRONG side of the neckline, then sew it using 3/8 inch seam allowance.  Fold the band to the right side enclosing the seam and top-stitch close to the fold.

Finish the sleeve bottoms the same way, stretching the bias band slightly as you attach it.  After top-stitching it in place, complete the side seams, paying close attention to make sure it’s neat and tidy at the armholes.

My hem is 1 inch (2.5 cm) and I use a cardstock template that’s exactly 1 inch wide to press up the hem.  Sew, press and wear!

Yes, I’m really happy with the results, and am comfortably dressed in my new blouse and my Jalie Renee pants with an added easy welt pocket.

Sew, are you inspired?