Round Shoulder Adjustment for Me

Too much time at a computer, sewing machine, serger, cutting table, kitchen counter, and age all contribute to round shoulders and a general “hunching” forward. For me, it’s been gradual, and has become more pronounced with each birthday. A round shoulder adjustment has become a required alteration for me.

I realized that I couldn’t ignore it any longer if I wanted my garments to fit me properly when I sewed a combination outfit for 
Fabricville.  I used Jalie’s V-Neck top Alice for the top and their Vanessa for the pants. Click here to read that post.

I’ve made a few lovely tops with this pattern, and wrote a post when it was first introduced,  It’s here.

In the photo I am wearing a knit Tee (Jalie’s Mimosa 3890) and you can see how the back neckline is being pulled down to accommodate my extra back length. In a woven top it’s very clear that I need extra fabric in the back.  I traced my shoulder/upper back curve in red to show that the greatest curve is about 3 1/2 inches below the knobby bone at the base of my neck, (which you can’t see in the photo).

Taking a photo of your side view can help you determine where you need to add fabric.

Round Shoulder Adjustment (shown on Jalie’s Alice)

Trace off a new copy of the back. (In case you mess it up). At the spot where you need to add fabric, draw a line perpendicular to the center back all the way across the pattern. (Mine is 3 1/2 inches from the back neck) You might need it higher or lower. It depends on YOUR shoulders.

Cut on the line from center back, leaving an uncut “hinge” at the armhole.  Tilt out the top to leave a space the width of the amount or fabric you need to add.
I added ¾”.

If your pattern has a center back seam, you could just slide a piece of paper underneath, tape it into place, and sew the canter back seam as the curve.

However…..

Our Alice pattern has the back cut on the fold, so we have to straighten the center back.  The only way of doing that is by making 2 darts. On my first attempt I put the darts on the shoulder seam, one on each side.

But, on my body, that’s not where the excess needs to be removed. My excess fabric needs to be removed closer to center back so that’s where I put my darts.

To create the darts, cut your pattern straight down to the line you cut earlier, again leaving an uncut “hinge” of ¼” . Slide a piece of paper underneath, and tape piece “A” into place. At the center back, measure up the amount you need to add, and keeping the center back straight tape piece “B” into place. Piece “C” is still attached at the armhole by the hinge. Tape it into place.

You’ve just created a new pattern piece for the back!

I used Jalie’s Alice as my sample, but this method can be used on any similarly shaped back. Alice has a back neck facing and this alteration does not affect it. After sewing the darts, the shape of the finished back neck reverts back to the original.

Want a “printable?  Round Shoulder Adjusting Jalie

What are your alteration challenges?  Send me off an email, I’d love to hear more.  yvettechilcott@yahoo.ca