Burda Tee Shirt 6749

I still hate/dislike using the “hack” word with my sewing.  But, I guess I’d better learn to live with it…..

because……..

at the Creativfestival, Fall 2017…….

I’m teaching for Distinctive Sewing Supplies!

And one of the classes is:

One Pattern = 3 Different Tees

Working from a commercial sewing pattern with a round (not “V”) neckline, Yvette (that’s me)  will teach some basic pattern personalization, creating 3 adaptations, an inverted front pleat, adding an extended sleeve cap, and adding side drapes.  Suggested patterns include: Jalie 2805, Burda 6749 or 6611

So now not only am I a “Pattern Hacker” but I’ll be teaching others how to “Pattern Hack”.   Go figure.

I made this sample of the inverted front pleat using Burda 6749 in a soft breathable Rayon Spandex Jersey.  I was given the pattern and the fabric by Catherine, owner of Distinctive Sewing Supplies so I could test the pattern and the fabric, write this blog post, and prepare the lesson notes for our upcoming class at the Creativfestival. 

The Pattern:

Product Description;  This style has been especially designed for a close fit and for jersey fabric. The classic pattern can be used for a wide array of attractive tops, both in plain or print fabric. Sew your favourites with either short or long sleeves. Recommended fabrics: Two-way stretch jersey.  Sizes 20 to 34 (all sizes included in pattern).

I made the size 28, in view B for my sample.  I really like the shape of this top, the waist comes in for a nice feminine silhouette or it could be eliminated for a straighter figure.  The shoulders sit smoothly and don’t appear extra wide like in some plus sized patterns.  The neckline has a flattering shape.   I shortened the long sleeves to 3/4.  Many people (like me) push a long sleeve up to just below the elbow anyway.

The Fabric:

The rayon-spandex fabric is soft, breathable and drapey. It is suitable for t-shirts, cardigans and flowing skirts.

Other Details
Content:  95% Rayon 5% Spandex
Width:  148 cm / 58″
Fabric Weight:  190 gsm / 5.6 osy
 
This fabric is very soft, stretchy and is so comfortable to wear.  I’ve found that as I’m aging, my internal thermostat is set high and I’m warm most of the time.  I’ve made a few garments in this fabric and it’s COOL and breathes.  Here’s a link to my post reviewing Jalie Raglan Tee 3245,                  click here.
 

Some Construction Tips:

  • Work on a large surface with no fabric hanging off the edge.
  • if the selvedges seem “pulled” trim them off before pinning your pattern onto the fabric.
  • Use sharp pins.
  • Cut with a rotary cutter, ruler and a mat.
  • Sew with a new needle, I use a 75/11 for knits.
  • Stabilize the neck and front shoulders with a fusible knit interfacing.

More information is coming regarding the Creativfestival Fall 2017 and I’ll keep you updated.  In the meantime, if you’re interested in taking my class, order your pattern soon, to avoid disappointment.  

Are you a “Pattern Hacker”? 

Front Closing Sports Bra with snaps

Is there such a thing as a comfortable bra?   Until now, I had never worn one.   I mean a comfortable one.   50 years of discomfort.  Done.

Meet COMFORT!

  

 Meet PRETTY!

I used fabric remnants from previous projects, both are a rayon spandex jersey with 4 way stretch which were provided to me by Distinctive Sewing Supplies, an on-line retailer based in Oakville Ontario.   It is one of the most comfortable fabrics I’ve ever worn.

Burda 6749 front
left front

And this is the most comfortable bra I have ever worn.  The pattern is from Lingerie Secrets, “Front Closing” Sports Bra.

I used plastic snaps on an added placket to close the front, and a pretty lace elastic around the neck and arms instead of a hidden finish that’s described in the pattern.

My sewing instructions are geared to sewing a size Large, A cup. Measurements for other sizes may differ, so please follow the instructions included with your pattern.

Here’s how I made the Plackets:

After cutting out the bra, back and front, I fused 2 pieces of medium weight fusible interfacing cut 4 1/2 inches by 3 inches, to the wrong side of a leftover piece of fabric.  Cut out after it cools.

Fold each in half with right sides together long-ways and sew the short ends using 1/4″ seam allowance.

Clip the corners at the fold, then turn right side out, press and set aside for later.

To Sew the Bra:  Note:  the center front and the sides look very similar once the pattern paper comes off, so I suggest marking the center fronts until you’ve sewn the side seams.  I used safety pins.

Sew the shoulders and the side seams.  My fabric was very soft so I slipped a strip of water soluble stabilizer underneath the seam and sewed over it.  I used my sewing machine and first seamed with a narrow zig zag, then finished the edges with a triple zig zag.  The stabilizer will disappear in the first washing.

Attaching the Decorative Elastic:

The instructions use a hidden elastic application, and is very clear to follow.  I, however, have quite a “bit” of pretty elastic, and wanted the edge of it to show on the finished bra.

Attaching the elastic is a 2-step process.  Start by putting the right side of the elastic on the right side of the fabric, with the straight edge of the elastic even with the raw edge of the fabric.  Use a fairly wide, long zig zag, width and length at 5mm. 

 

For the neckline, follow the pattern instructions, and begin the elastic 1/4 inch from the center front.  I found that my machine wanted to “eat” the fabric when I did that, so I put the elastic on top, extending the end past the center front, BUT began sewing 1/4″ in from the front edge.  I trimmed off the excess later.

The first inch of elastic is sewn on without stretching it, but then, (for my size) the instructions say to stretch 2 inches of elastic over 3 inches of fabric.  Hmmmmmm, here’s how I tackled that.  With a heat away pen, I marked a dot on the elastic 2 inches from the needle.  Then I marked a spot on the fabric 3 inches from the needle, stretched the elastic so the marks were together and stitched to the mark.

 The same process was used at the center back.  Then the elastic was folded to the inside so the scalloped edge extended beyond the fabric edge and top-stitched with the same sized zig zag to finish.

The elastic along the bottom was sewn according to the pattern instructions.

To Complete the Front with the Placket for Snaps:

Gather each center front edge with 2 rows of basting stitches as described in the pattern instructions.  Gather each front to fit inside the open edge of the placket pieces you set aside earlier.  Pin to hold, then use a wide zig zag along the open edge of the placket to sew through all layers.

Attach the snaps according to the directions with the snaps.

I hope you enjoy wearing your new bra as much as I am comfortable in mine.

Folkwear #108 Turkish Dancer Jacket

Do you see a jacket on the pattern cover?

I didn’t, at first.  In a previous post about this pattern, I wrote about my linen sundress.

I wore this dress when I was at Quilt Canada helping my friend Catherine, owner of Distinctive Sewing Supplies.  It was a popular pattern, and so was the fabric.  Both sold well.  But, I was cold.  I needed sleeves, there was a jacket pattern included with Turkish Dancer, AND Distinctive Sewing Supplies had the perfect fabric.

Sew, a jacket was born!  My disclaimer; the fabric was supplied to me at no charge in exchange for my making and writing about the jacket.  Again, it’s my pleasure. 

Every single piece of fabric I have from Distinctive Sewing Supplies has been great to sew.  I’ve had no surprises, each piece has been exactly as it was described on the website. 

I traced off a size medium, lengthening the body and the sleeves by 2 inches. 

Only 3 pieces, it didn’t take long to cut out. 

The edges are designed to be finished with bias binding turned to the inside, but I wanted to take it up a notch.  I like the idea of bias binding, but chose to turn it to the out-side and leave the edge raw, unfinished, and brushed for texture.  The inside is smooth and perfectly finished.

frayed bias binding
bias trim

I cut enough 1.25 inch wide strips to go around the entire jacket as well as the bottoms of both sleeves then joined them to make one long strip.  The seam allowance was trimmed to 1/4inch and pressed open.

The only change I made to the pattern, other than lengthening it, was to round off the bottom front a bit by tracing a container and trimming off the excess.

Construction of the jacket was simple, and I used my serger to finish the edges.  I also used my serger with the differential set to the largest setting to gather the sleeve caps between the notches. 

After setting in the sleeves and sewing the side seams it was time to apply the prepared bias trim.  I started at the bottom dean a side-seam and sewed the right side of the trim (using 1/4 inch seam allowance) to the wrong side of the jacket.  I left a bit un-sewn at the beginning so I could join the strip at the end.  After joining the beginning and ending on the bias and pressing the seam allowance open, I completed attaching it and trimmed off the points.

To finish it, fold the trim to the right side, wrapping the seam allowance.  Sew from the wrong side, “in the ditch”.

I used a toothbrush to fluff the raw edge.

 

 

inside
back
jacket
right side

What do you think?  I love this little jacket and will make more.

I’d love to read some comments……..

Sewing Projects after Quilt Canada

I helped my friend Catherine Goetz, owner of Distinctive Sewing Supplies, at Quilt Canada 2017.  In case you don’t know, Distinctive Sewing Supplies is not a quilt shop.  Catherine focuses on quality garment fabrics and great sewing patterns. 

We had a great time, the booth was a popular place, especially after Catherine’s Trunk Shows.  It was a 4-day show, and I think we spent the entire time thinking and talking about sewing. 

Customers’ sewing, and our next sewing projects.  I wore my Folkwear “Turkish Dancer” dress a couple of times and received many compliments on it.  Everyone who asked about the pattern was amazed at the transformation.   I wrote about how I did it here.

another front
Turkish Dancer 108 Cover

But I was cold and would have loved a little jacket.    There’s a jacket pattern included in the same envelope, and Distinctive Sewing Supplies has the perfect piece of fabric, a linen/cotton blend in the perfect colour to go with me dress.  It came home with me.

These stretch poplin prints are new, at 58 inches wide and at 97% cotton and  3% spandex, they co-ordinate well and there’s a great pattern. 

I have a few classes for Distinctive Sewing Supplies in the works for the Fall Creativfesival, and am busy planning my samples and notes.

We have 3 lecture style classes proposed, one on neckline finishes, one on pockets, and one on Fashion Fabric Know-how.  A hands-on class;  “One Tee Pattern = 3 New Styles” will have my students learn some basic pattern morphing, creating 3 adaptations, an inverted front pleat, adding an extended sleeve cap, and adding side drapes.  More details will follow.

Sew, that’s what’s on the worktable at the moment, along with Rock.

 What’s on your worktable?

 

 

“Q” Section Quilting or Quilting in Sections

I made this quilt.

And I loved every (almost) block.  I also really, really like the setting.  Thank you Pat Sloan.  Asymmetrical.

I used all left-over Christmas prints from other projects, and white on white or cream background fabrics.

It was MY challenge, too.   My next challenge was to machine quilt it.  Pat’s asymmetrical layout was my inspiration.  I decided to quilt it in 3 sections, then join the sections together.

I free motion quilted section 1 all the way to the edges.  Then machine quilted most of section 2, leaving about 2 inches unquilted along the edge where it meets section 1.

I trimmed the edge of section 1’s batting and backing even with the edge that meets section 2.  Then with the right sides of the quilt pieces facing each other, I pinned all the layers of section 1 to just the top of section 2, and sewed it using 1/4 inch seam allowance.  I sewed with section 2 on top so I could keep the extra batting and backing flipped out of the way.

After sewing, flip it over to check the right side, to make sure everything matches the way it should.

On the back, finger press the seam allowance toward the single layer, and trim the batting to the edge of that seam allowance.  I used chalk to mark the cutting line.

Smooth the batting into place, then cut the excess backing fabric 1 inch beyond the edge of the seam allowance.  I found it helpful to mark the cutting line with chalk.

Fold the backing fabric to the inside so the fold extends 1/4 inch beyond the original sewing line and pin into place, pinning across the seam line.

Working from the good side, stitch in the ditch along the original seam line, which will catch the edge of the backing fabric.  Leave the pins in place (you can see them easily) , sew slowly, and walk your machine over each pin.  Remove the pins.

This picture shows the completed seam before it was pressed, it’s in the center.  Yes, it’s visible.  No, there are no quilt police in my house. 

Now you can go back and complete the unfinished machine quilting of section 2.  Section 3 is attached the same way.

I’m going to do more of this kind of machine quilting, and am certainly joining Pat Sloan in more of her projects.  Her next one is called Grandma’s Kitchen, and I hope to see you there.

One Bowl Rhubarb Custard Squares

Here’s an easy recipe to take advantage of a surplus of rhubarb. 

One Bowl Rhubarb Custard Squares

one bowl rhubarb squares

 

Just one bowl, first make the shortbread base, press it into the bottom of a cake pan, sprinkle on the rhubarb, then use that same bowl to mix the custard topping.  Pour it over the rhubarb, bake, cool and eat!

One-bowl Rhubarb Custard Squares
Serves 9
One bowl, 3 layers, yummy
Write a review
Print
Prep Time
10 min
Cook Time
30 min
Total Time
40 min
Prep Time
10 min
Cook Time
30 min
Total Time
40 min
Crust
  1. 1 c all purpose flour
  2. 1/4 cup brown sugar
  3. 1/4 c butter
Filling
  1. 2 c fresh not frozen rhubarb, diced
Custard
  1. 2 eggs
  2. 3/4 cup brown sugar
  3. 1/4 c flour
  4. 1/2 tsp vanilla
Instructions
  1. Preheat oven to 350°F.
  2. Blend crust ingredients. Press into ungreased 9" x 9" pan.
  3. Evenly spread the chopped rhubarb on the crust.
  4. Mix topping ingredients in the same bowl then pour it over the rhubarb.
  5. Bake at 350F for about 30 minutes or till crust is golden brown.
SewWhatYvette? http://www.sewwhatyvette.com/

 

 

Adding In-Set Side Pockets to the Sewing Workshop Pattern San Diego Coat

I need pockets in my pants and in my jackets.  If the pattern doesn’t include pockets, I add them.

This version of the San Diego Jacket is made of a soft draping stretch woven jacquard.  This is the first time I’ve sewn a garment from this fabric, and it’s although is a woven fabric, it behaves like a soft knit.   I felt that a patch pocket would add too much weight to the front and drag it down.  I chose to add inseam side pockets.

My disclosure:  The beautiful stretch woven jacquard was provided to me at no charge by Distinctive Sewing Supplies in exchange for writing a review.  This is an interesting fabric in that it has no floats, is totally reversible and the stretch is on the lengthwise grain.  

Here’s how I drafted the pattern;

Cut a piece of pattern paper 8 inches by 12 inches and draw a  line one inch in from the right edge, then mark dots on that line, 2 inches and then 8 inches from the top.

Cut 4 pockets from your main fabric.  If your main fabric is thick or heavy, you can cut 2 of a lighter-weight stable woven fabric for the front layer and 2 of your garment fabric for the back layer. 

You also need 2 strips of medium weight fusible interfacing 2 inches by 8 inches.  Mark dots along the center, one inch from each end.

Decide where on the side-seam you want your pockets.  I positioned mine so the bottom would get caught up in the hem.

Mark the dot positions on the wrong side at the side-seam, then fuse on the interfacing, matching the dots. Pin the pocket lining to the fronts, matching the dots.  Use a short stitch and sew from the edge of the side, pivot at the dot, along the straight edge, pivot, then sew to the edge.

Trim away around the seam, leaving 3/8” seam allowance.  Clip the corners just to the sewing line then turn the lining to the inside and press well.  Gently roll the seam line to the inside as you press.

With the inside of the front facing up, pin the remaining pocket piece only to the lining with the right sides together.  Sew along the top, inside and bottom, leaving the outer edge open.  I used my serger. 

Press to smooth, then baste the entire pocket bag into position onto the front, making sure that everything is even at the side-seams. 

Continue with the jacket construction.  Sewing the side-seam will complete the pocket. 

I finished my jacket with cover-stitch, including the hem, which anchored the pocket bottom.  I also  used cover-stitch around the pocket from the right side which anchored it all the way around. 

You can see it slightly in this picture.

Below is a 1 page PDF to download so you can print these instructions.

As usual, please contact me if you have any questions or comments, I welcome your feedback.

set in side seam pocket

Turkish Dancer, my Dress

I’m not going to use the work “hack” for my changes.  

Here’s why:

Definition of hack (according to Merriam Webster

 

  • 1 a :  to cut or sever with repeated irregular or unskillful blows

  • b :  to cut or shape by or as if by crude or ruthless strokes hacking out new election districts

  • c :  annoy, vex —often used with off He gets really hacked off when people cheat.

  • 2 :  to clear or make by or as if by cutting away vegetation hacked his way through the brush

  • 3 a :  to manage successfully just couldn’t hack the new job : 

  • b :  tolerate I can’t hack all this noise

None of those definitions describe the thought and care that go into modifying a sewing pattern.  Perhaps “mod” is a good substitute word.  What are your thoughts?

Here’s how I changed, modified, adapted Folkwear Turkish Dancer Dress #108 into a sleeveless dress.

Let me start by saying that I NEVER cut out a “master pattern”.  Anymore.  The last time I cut out a master pattern I cut a size too small.  Nowadays I trace, using the thin but strong medical paper that Distinctive Sewing Supplies sells by the roll. 

To add for a larger front overlap:

I drew a line 1 inch away from the edge of the paper, parallel with the straight edge, as long as the front pattern piece,  then lined up the original center front on the new line before beginning to trace the front.  This added one inch extra on the center front. You can see the original pattern easily through the tracing paper.

I used a dressmaker curve to “true” the lower neck curve, ignoring the pointy self-facing.  You can see the original pattern through the paper.

using dressmakers curve for neckline
drawn curve

I also shortened the dress length by 12 inches which still gave me a 1 inch hem allowance.  To mark an even hem line I measured up from the bottom and marked the pattern at even intervals then just joined the marks.

 After cutting out the dress in both the linen and voile I lined each piece (2 fronts and a back) with the voile and serged around the outer edge to treat each inner lined piece as one. 

Cut strips of 1 inch wide medium weight interfacing and fuse them to the inside (on the voile) edges of the fronts.

The sewing was quick and easy.  I marked the darts and sewed them from the middle out to the points.  Then joined the shoulders. 

I finished the neckline, armholes and the fronts with self-made bias binding.  I had enough voile left from the original amount of 1 1/2 meters to make enough 2 inch wide bias strips for it all.  I pressed 2 inch wide bias in half length-ways with wrong sides together, then sewed the raw edges around the neckline first, using a 3/8″ seam allowance, and leaving about 1 1/2 inches extra at each end. 

right sides together
pinned
right side

Fold the binding and the seam allowance to the inside and stitch close to the fold of the binding.  Don’t trim off the extra ends yet.

Finish the armholes the same way, BEFORE sewing the side seams.

 

I also finished the edges of the fronts with the first step of the binding, then trimming off the extra neck binding.  Leave a bit of extra binding at the top and bottom. Press the folded edge out over the seam allowance, it should just extend over the edge of the fabric a tiny bit.

Sew the side seams and press up the hem by 1 inch. 

To finish the fronts, I folded in one inch, tucked under the tail of bias, and pressed.  (the edge of the fusible interfacing is the fold line)  To hold the front facings in  I stitched where the black line is in the photo below, then followed the folded edge of the binding all the way to the hem, and back stitched.  Did the same for the other side of the front, then stitched up the hem.

Buttonholes and buttons, and ready to wear. 

I love my dress! 

Both the linen print and the cotton voile lining were given to me by Distinctive Sewing Supplies in exchange for making the dress and documenting my pattern changes.

For a printable PDF describing my pattern “mods” please click here.

Turkish Dancer to Dress How-to

Turkish Dancer Dress Folkwear 108

 

My dress is finished!

This beautiful linen caught my eye as soon as it was unpacked when we set up the Distinctive Sewing Supply booth at last month’s Creativfestival. The pattern is  Folkwear design called a Turkish Dancer Dress, #108, but you’d never guess from looking at the cover of the pattern.

The “V” of the neck looks very low, (it isn’t).

My linen dress is fully underlined with a cotton voile, and I’ll wear it as soon as it gets warm enough.

I omitted the sleeves and the side slits, shortened the length by 12 inches, and overlapped the front by 1 inch.

I made another version of the same dress a couple of years ago,  in a linen/cotton blend, but the fabric was heavier so it didn’t need the underlining.  I love the slightly extended shoulder and the slight upward curve of the shoulder at the neck.  The neckline and armholes are finished with self-made bias binding.

My disclosure:  The beautiful linen and the cotton voile for the interlining was provided to me at no charge by Distinctive Sewing Supplies in exchange for writing a review of the fabric and a tutorial for the pattern changes.   And just sew you know, I would have bought the fabrics anyway.  I LOVE them! 

(I already had the pattern)  Pre-order yours from Distinctive Sewing Supplies by clicking here.

They arrive with labels:

Both fabrics, the linen and the cotton voile were soaked in Eucalan for 20 minutes, then rinsed and tumble dried at low heat for about 20 minutes.  Both fabrics came out of the drier looking a bit “rumpled”, but not enough that I felt I had to iron them.  Smoothing them with my hands on the cutting table was enough.

My next post will detail the simple adjustments to the pattern.

Old Mexico Dress/Blouse

I’ve had this pattern, Old Mexico Dress by Folkwear in my collection for a while now, it was given to me by my friend Catherine last year in exchange for modelling for Distinctive Sewing Supplies at the CreativFestival.  My intention was (and it might still happen) to make a summer nightgown for one of my daughters in a lightweight cotton voile.

Catherine made the dress in a dark coloured rayon batik, and it convinced me to make one for myself.  The pattern comes in 3 suggested lengths, blouse, hip and dress.  The hip length appealed to me, to wear over slim jeans, and I had the perfect piece of fabric. 

I traced off the pattern in size medium, checked the finished length (it was fine) , then pinned and cut out my blouse. 

As a certified Islander Sewing System teacher, I often analyze construction methods and adapt them to make my sewing easier and more professional.

Attaching the pleated front and back into the yoke was made much easier using the “burrito method”.  (And appropriate, too, for a Mexican pattern) Note how tidy the inside is.

I also sewed the sleeves in flat, (using my serger) instead of “inserting” them, then serged the side-seam up to, but not including the pre-pressed sleeve hem.

The sleeve hems and the bottom were finished with a single needle top-stitch, and a light pressing.  Done.  Now I’m ready for some warm weather.

Do you have this pattern?  Have you made it?  Thoughts?

Yup, I sew, machine knit, crochet, garden, cook, love, and share.