Neckline Alteration to Control Unwanted Stretching

I sew a lot of white tops each season, as they stain easily. You know, coffee, tea, red wine, etc.  This fabric, a 2 x 2 rib from a bargain bin has a nice feel, but no memory.   Once it’s stretched, it stays stretched.  I had a neckline nightmare on my hands! Time for a neckline alteration.

It innocently began like this:

I used a new Jalie pattern; Nicole, a great looking tee/tunic/dress for knits with bust darts for a flattering fit. 

I did an introduction post of this new pattern, click here to read it.

I found the front neckline a bit high for the look I wanted, so lowered the front neckline by 2 inches like this:

And fused strips of 1-inch wide “tricotknit” cut across the grain to the inside prior to hemming the neckline, like this:

That was supposed to stabilize the neckline!

And the neckline STILL grew 3 inches wider when I turned it in and stitched it!!!!  I ended up unpicking the stitching, thank goodness it was white!   

Then I cut another strip of the tricotknit cut on the cross-grain that was 20% shorter than the neckline circumference.  I sewed it into a loop, 1/4 pinned it and the neckline and with the non-fusible side against the outside of the neckline, sewed it in place with a 1/4 inch seam allowance, stretching the tricotknit and easing the neckline to fit. It helped to pull the neckline back to a useable size.  To finish the neckline alteration, I folded the tricotknit AND the seam allowance to the inside, fused it, then top-stitched it into place.

That worked!

There are soooooooo many ways to finish necklines.  Choosing the right one for the fabric can be a bit of trial and error.